Revolution or Reception

The French countryside view along Lake Geneva

We wanted to drive around Lake Geneva  so even though the weather threatened rain we grabbed our GPS and headed to the Lake. I hoped the addresses for parking garages I had found were going to take us where we wanted to go but Doug reminded me we just needed to keep the lake on our left and we'd be fine. Relaxed with his confidence, I sat back and enjoyed the view. The calm lake, the quaint walled medieval towns, the green hills with the snow capped mountains in the distance framed our car window with a stunning panoramic view.  We entered France without any fanfare; literally entered through an unmanned customs station and drove toward Thonon. 

Lake Geneva's coastline

We walked around in the old town of Thonon and discovered a group of people standing by city hall with a few police standing nearby. In the square, there were people dressed in military uniforms holding flags. Language barriers can cause a few difficulties at times. We weren't sure what was happening but it seemed fairly safe so we hung back a bit and learned it wasn't a revolution, just a parade and a ceremony of some sort. 

We gazed at the lake from the promenade, walked around fountains surrounded by bright yellow and orange flowers, and found a statue of General Dessaix who fought in the  Napoleonic Wars in the late 1700's. 

As we walked through the city we found a restaurant with a line of people ordering lunch (always a good sign) and I read some of the words on the menu (a bonus). It smelled yummy so we ordered two different dishes and grabbed a table upstairs for a delicious meal with fresh bread.

Refreshed, we ventured to Evian. I was looking forward to filling my water bottle with Evian water out of one of the many fountains in the city. Evian is now a spa and resort town, but began selling its mineral water in 1859. I got mine free from the fountain in the center of the park. General Dupas' statue, a famous hero of the Napoleonic Wars, was proudly celebrated in his hometown.

We continued driving through small lake towns with campgrounds, beaches, and houses hugging the shoreline until we got to the Swiss border. This border guard was stopping cars, checking passports and occasionally searching vehicles. 

Chateau de Chillon

Now back in Switzerland, we headed to the northern edge of the lake. The Chateau de Chillon in Montreux was waiting for us. I was looking forward to walking through this huge castle. The castle was built on a large natural rock near the shore on Lake Geneva. A natural moat had to be crossed to enter the castle. It had been a residence, an armory, a prison, a warehouse, a hospital and now a museum. We walked across the moat and entered the castle which had its beginning in the 10th century. We had a written guide in English and spent over 2 hours there. We ducked through the prison and crypt (well, one of us had to duck), walked through the courtyards, gazed at the palace rooms, climbed the towers, looked at Lake Geneva from our high vantage point in the castle, and walked up stairs until we reached the keep. The keep was a refuge tower, a place of safety in case of attack. Weapons were stored there and it was well protected. 

I loved every minute of our time there.

The Royal courtyard

Near the end of our time in the castle we were surprised by horns blowing, We looked out a window to see people dressed in red uniforms blowing Alphorns, others in royal looking robes, and still others standing outside the castle. We made up all sorts of scenarios but it was not a revolution. The people of the area had been invited to a black tie and white wine reception. 

Alphorn Players

Canton of Vaud Official

Vineyard terraces cover the hillside

The rain had started as we left the castle so we made our way back to Geneva. I had seen vineyards before on our travels but these vineyards in Lavaux were spectacular. Every space was planted even under the overpasses, the hilly ground terraced with rock walls for as far as my eye could see, the vines all pruned and trained to follow the trellis. The vines were just beginning to leaf. I kept thinking about the amount of labor involved in the making of this wine. 

There was still so much to explore on this trip around the lake but it will have to wait for another day. 

Making every moment count

The Arve River

The last 8 weeks have raced past me much like the Arve River we walked alongside last night. Doug and I typically go walking for an hour or two after dinner. We have explored much of the city this way. Sometimes we take a tram to the end of a line and discover Geneva from there. Sometimes we head out from our apartment and walk until it is time to go home. We find a bus or tram and then from there figure out how to get home. Last night was one of those nights. The Arve River is just two blocks from our apartment. We walked to the river and took a route we hadn't walked before. The river surprised me. At times the glacier colored water rushed over rocks, swirling powerfully as it flowed past us. Yet there were areas of quiet, still water where sandy banks and benches invited one to sit and stay a spell. I could hear God's Word speaking to me as we continued to walk along the banks of the river.

Yvoire Castle

Views from the top of the old city walls

Yesterday I joined friends on a Lake Geneva cruise to a medieval town in France. It was a beautiful day on the lake. The French Alps were clearly visible in the distance and the Swiss countryside with the vineyards and small coastal towns spoke of a slower pace. We cruised for a little over 2 hours before we arrived at Yvoire, France. The castle greeted us as we exited the ship. It stood tall atop the ramparts that surrounded it. We knew we could not go inside because it is still inhabited by a family. Like right, they actually live in a castle!

The protected harbor of Yvoire

The town was lovely and time spent with John and Sharon delightful. They are visiting their children in Geneva for a few weeks and we have been sharing stories and adventures together. We walked around the old city, discovered fun shops, a restaurant serving delicious perch from Lake Geneva, Saint Pancras church built in the 11th century, beautiful topiary displays on the walls of buildings and unbelievable views of the lake throughout the town. Oh, and we had to try the gelato; chocolate of course for me! One can not go wrong with chocolate here.


We cruised back to Geneva that evening and enjoyed the view from the first class section of the ship. We didn't know it at first but it was evident when we got on the deck and saw the nice reclining beach chairs, the wine glasses and the clientele. Must have been okay because we weren't kicked out when they checked our tickets. It was another great day on the water.

Stuttgart, Germany

Lunch on the Rhine River

I knew a little about my immigrant forefather Gottlieb Enz. Things like when he was born (1838), where he came from (Bergenweiler, Wurttemberg, Germany), when he arrived in WI (1865). I had read he was a farmer, was married, lived in Glenmore, WI and went to Lark Evangelical Church just down the road from his farm. I'd been curious about Germany and my family heritage for a long time and this seemed like a good time to learn a little more.

Doug and I traveled to Stuttgart, Germany, the capital of Baden-Wurttemberg, which was about a 6 hour drive from Geneva. As I planned our travel for the weekend I learned of a few treasures that I hoped to be able to find along the way. We stopped in Basel, Switzerland on our way to Germany. We knew there was a spot where the three countries of Switzerland, France and Germany intersected and walked along the Rhine River to see what we could see (right, dad). The Rhine River begins in the Swiss Alps, flows along the borders of Liechtenstein, Austria, France, and then through Germany to the Netherlands until it ends in the North Sea. We walked for a long time looking for the infamous Three Countries Corner and saw lots of interesting things along our way including a large group of sailors apparently on a reunion of sorts taking the boat across the Rhine while playing their drums.
 We grabbed a market lunch and enjoyed it while sitting on the shore of the Rhine before we headed to Germany.

Farmland in Baden Wurttenberg, Germany

The border guard between Switzerland and Germany stopped us briefly, checked our passport and allowed us to enter. The first thing we noticed was the immediate change in topography. The mountains of Switzerland were behind us and the land before us was so flat. Small farms were scattered among the large fields. We saw workers covering raised planted beds with hooped white plastic tarps. We could see plants under the plastic and realized they were large greenhouses covering the entire field. Doug was driving on the autobahn and kept mostly in the slow lane since we were following the speed limit, unlike many others. There were times when a car would speed past us so fast it pulled our car too. I am thankful Doug is a great driver.

We traveled toward the Black Forest and the city of Pforzheim. While researching online, I had discovered there was an Enz River near Pforzheim. There were three rivers that joined together in the city and I wasn't sure how to find the Enz. Plus the city of Pforzheim was much larger than I thought it would be. I wanted to find the Enz River in this town with some kind of assurance I was in the right place. I was pleased with what we found. Of course I needed a photo with my sign. The Enz River is a clean river with areas of occasional rapids. Sometimes it is banked by areas of concrete and other times it has natural banks with green paths along the edge.

I reflected about how Gottlieb left everything that was familiar to him to go to a place with different customs, different foods, a different language, different ways to farm, but without the conveniences of technology to keep him connected to Germany. I am indeed blessed with today's technologies which help me stay connected with everyone even though I am many miles away.

The tolling of the bells

It was ten minutes before 6 pm and the bells began to toll at this church. We didn't understand why they were tolling but waited until 6 pm to see what would happen next. The church bells continued to ring and the sound reverberated off the buildings that surrounded it. It was not until we reached Stuttgart that we understood why. During WWII the city of Pforzheim was bombed so severely by the British Air Force that  90 percent of the city was flattened, and over 30 percent of the population died. World War II changed this city forever; bells toll in remembrance of the devastation.

We wanted to grab dinner before driving to our hotel for the night. We had seen a few restaurants while walking around the town. My German's even worse than my French, which means it is essentially non-existent. Thankfully, the waiters at the restaurant understood my pointing and nodding. It looked similar to falafel but with a German twist. It smelled good, looked good and tasted great.

Duke Eberhard in Altes Schloss (Old Castle)

Stuttgart was also heavily bombed during WWII but did not suffer the destruction of Pforzheim because of the deep valleys of the city and the shelters built in the hills. We went into the city on Sunday and sat inside an Evangelical Lutheran Church as services ended. It was good to be in a church alive with a congregation worshiping God and encouraging one another.

We walked the streets of old town, saw the New and Old Castles, fountains, the statue of Duke Eberhard I (1445-1496), listened to street musicians, and sat in the park called Schlossgarten. It was a perfect day in the park, about 65 degrees with clear blue skies and a gentle breeze. The park was serene with beautiful flower gardens, open areas of green grass and large trees, and the noise from the fountain was soothing to our ears. but alas it was time to say goodbye to Baden-Wurttenberg begin the drive back to Geneva.

We traveled back through the Black Forest of Germany toward the mountains of Switzerland. The Black Forest is filled with the dark, blue green leaves of fir trees dappled with the bright green of the new leaves on the deciduous trees. We spotted a few deer eating in the fields, small herds of cows and sheep near the barns, and goats climbing the hills.

When we got back home we could hardly believe we had only been gone one night. It was indeed a wonderful glimpse of my heritage.

Lyon, France

Terrreaux Fountain

Lyon, France is the second largest metropolitan area in France (after Paris). It's known for its historical landmarks and has developed a reputation for its gourmet cuisine. We were looking forward to exploring the city.

We drove about an hour and a half to the city of Lyon, France on Saturday. It was a lovely, 73 degree, blue sky kind of day and the drive to Lyon was beautiful. The hilly green countryside was dotted with small brown barns, cattle and sheep were grazing in pastures, and farmers were planting row crops in the red dirt fields. 

I had an address of a park and ride location near Lyon where we could park the car outside of Lyon and ride the metro into the city. I had planned the route to see as much as we could in one day while allowing time for wandering, detours and people watching. We were on an adventure and one never knows what will happen. After a few glitches that reminded us how funny and challenging adventures can be, we headed toward Lyon. We found a sign with a map of the area that helped us get oriented. Since we were near the Hotel de Ville we stopped at the Terreaux fountain. In the 1800's Bartholdi, who created the Statue of Liberty, created this sculpture of a wife and 2 small children on a chariot drawn by 4 horses which represents France and the 4 French rivers.  

We wandered in the heart of the city between the Rhone and Saone Rivers for a bit and stopped in a few unique stores along the way. The streets are narrow and the buildings 6-8 stories tall so one never knows what one will find just around the next corner. We happened upon a large older building and discovered the church of Saint-Nizier. The church was built in the 14th century, suffered through times of war but has always been a place of refuge and hospitality.

Basilica Notre Dame of Fourviere

Doug's excellent sense of direction got us to the Metro line which we took to Fourviere Hill known as the praying hill. This was where the city first began as a Roman settlement in 43 BC. The Basilica Notre Dame of Fourviere was the first thing we saw as we exited the metro. We entered, heard organ music and sat on well worn, wooden pews to appreciate our surroundings. Everywhere we looked were mosaics, sculptures, and stained glass windows telling stories of the Christian faith. The floors were covered in colorful designs of 1 inch tiles. The walls were covered in huge themed murals with these same tiles. The pillars were ornately designed with sculptures of angel faces while the stained glass in the windows let in the light. Doug and I compared it to the stark cathedrals of Switzerland which had been shaped by Calvin during the reformation. The view of the city of Lyon from the terrace gave us a perspective of how large a city Lyon had become.

The city of Lyon

We walked down the hill toward the ruins of the Roman amphitheater which attested to thousands of years of life on this hill. This amphitheater was much larger than the one we visited in Avenches. Concerts are held here now thanks to modern additions of lights and power while still holding the ambience of what once was. 

The Roman ruins on Fourviere Hill

Lunch was on both of our minds and the old city called. We wandered through the car-less cobblestone streets lined with many shops of paintings, honey, spices, gelato and restaurants with their cozy outside tables. We found Giovany's, a great place to try French cuisine. Our meal was delicious, the atmosphere delightful, the people enchanting. It was a wonderful experience.

We had a few hours left before we needed to head for home so we went to a market I had discovered online filled with fruits and vegetables, fish and cheese, and desserts. It was a bit off the beaten path but that can be the best kind of adventure. We found the market (not quite what I thought it would be) but also a huge 5 story indoor mall (the largest mall I have ever seen).

Le Mur des Canuts

I was a little concerned about the next stop since I had read it was hard to find but we were up to the challenge. We were headed to Le Mur des Canuts, the largest mural in Europe. We needed to transfer to 4 different metro lines to get there but it was worth it. The entire flat face of several buildings which covered the entire block had been painted to represent the life of the silk workers who lived in this area in the 1800's. The silk workers had horrible working conditions and had staged many uprisings which eventually brought change to the area. We sat on a bench, gazed at the detail of design and illusion of depth in the painting and felt a part of the neighborhood.

On our way back to the car we stopped in the Park de la Tete d'Or which is a 290 acre urban park with botanical gardens, a zoo, a large lake, pathways through the wooded areas and rose gardens. It was just before dusk and the coolness of the evening was approaching. We knew we were still in the city and yet felt removed from the busyness. We enjoyed our evening stroll as a perfect way to end our day.

Easter in Switzerland

Easter is a 4 day holiday in Switzerland and we intended to see as much of this country as we possibly could in those 96 hours.

The Roman amphitheater in Avanches

On Friday we  headed to Avenches (ah-VAHNSH), a small city on a hill about 1 1/2 hours from Geneva. We had traveled some of this road a few weeks ago and I looked forward to the countryside speckled with vineyards and farmland. The fields, now covered with green spouts, attested to the fact that spring was here. Avenches was quiet on Good Friday. As I sat among the ruins of this old Roman city I thought about the many people who had been here before me. The town has been inhabited since 15 BC and was once one of the largest cities in the Roman empire. I felt a deep sense of history as I sat in the amphitheater where gladiators once fought. We went to the museum filled with many Roman artifacts uncovered in the city including gravestones, fishing spears, jewelry, cooking ware, and sculptures. As we walked around the city streets we kept smelling something wonderful. At first I thought it was freshly baked bread but I soon realized it was the Expresso factory I saw in the distance. It smelled delightful, even for a non coffee drinker like me.

We got back in the car and made our way to Murten (MOOR-ten) seven minutes down the road. This medieval town, built in the 1400's, still retained the wall and ramparts that surrounded the old city. As we entered through the stone gate we quickly noticed that we had crossed the linguistic border of Switzerland. All the signs, menus, and conversations changed even though we had not entered another country. The people no longer spoke French but German. We walked around the city streets, visited the Murten castle, enjoyed the view of the lake and visited a small French and large German church. As we climbed the stairs to the ramparts we talked about the battles fought here and the protection provided by the thick walls of the ramparts and tall towers. It made me think about God as my strong tower.

Fountain in Bern of Ogre eating children

I knew many grocery stores would be closed for the holiday so we sat in a cute park and ate the picnic lunch I packed before we continued our drive toward Bern. After we checked into our hotel room we grabbed the tram to Bern, the capital of Switzerland. Around the corner from the train station the bells tolled at the Church of the Holy Ghost and signaled the beginning of Good Friday service. We sat for a bit with other worshipers remembering Jesus' sacrifice for us. As we walked around the old city we loved finding the fountains. There are 11 colorful fountains all over Bern designed in the 16th century; my favorite was the Ogre. Doug said he was just kissing the babies; sure didn't look like that to me.

Bern's Prison Tower

 The cobblestone streets were large and open, lined with the country flag of Switzerland and the canton flag of Bern. We walked under the Prison Tower which was used as a prison until 1897, strolled past Einstein's House where thoughts of E=mc2  began, visited the Bern Cathedral which had a striking depiction of the Last Judgment at the entrance, watched the Aare River as it rushed past us and gazed at the bears searching for grub at the Bear Park. After dinner at the Spaghetti House we were ready to call it a day. 

On Saturday we headed toward Zurich, about an hour and a half drive from Bern. On the way we stopped in the town of Solothurn. We didn't know much about the town other than it was big enough to be on the map. We were delighted at what we found. We parked the car near the city gate and entered to find a large church. It was raining so we went inside and were met with the most harmonious sounds of violins, horns, clarinets, oboes, saxophones, and 4 gifted singers. The cathedral was filled with music as they practiced in anticipation of Easter. We sat and soaked it all in. What a great detour!

An impromptu  Easter concert

Stopping in Solothurn

St. Peter's Church- the oldest church in Zurich

Doug spotted an IKEA before we reached Zurich. We quickly exited for a bit of shopping. As we wandered through the large building we remarked the selection felt even larger than in the US. After checking in at our hotel in Zurich we grabbed a map of the city and took the tram into the heart of the city. We visited three churches in Zurich. My favorite was Fraumunster with its 5 beautiful 30 - foot tall stained-glass windows depicting Elijah and Elisha, Moses and the law, Jacob's ladder, King David and God's plan of salvation through Jesus.
We walked along the Limmat River and then headed back to the train station.

Fraumunster- the building with the spire

I was so excited on Easter Sunday as we attended the Zurich Vineyard. We were welcomed by the kindest people. The service was simutaneously translated in 6 languages and the message on love was both encouraging and challenging. I was moved to tears of joy during the worship and of course the baptisms. What a sweet time!
The day was sunny although still a bit chilly with an occasional snowflake in the air. We went to Lake Zurich in the afternoon and enjoyed a beautiful walk along the promenade where we encountered an opera singer, accordian players and a husband and wife playing the alphorn creating beautiful mellow music.

Listening to the Alphorn in Zurich 

Our lunch view

Monday arrived with beautiful clear blue skies.We began our drive back toward Geneva with a few stops along the way. Luzern (loot-SAIRN) is a charming city with an amazing view of the mountains. After walking through the town, we enjoyed lunch while sitting on a rooftop patio.

On the drive towards Interlaken

As we drove through the mountains towards home I couldn't stop staring out the window. The grandeur. The depth of color. The majestic power. The beauty. The snowcapped mountains. The lush green valleys. The gray tinted glacier waters of the rushing rivers. The clear, deep blue of the lakes. All of it seeming to draw me closer to the Creator.

My eyes could barely take it all in and the camera could only capture a small part of the view. As we reached Geneva we were filled with gratitude for such a great adventure. It has been a great 4 days.