The Netherlands

Wonderful "McKinley" photo op

After learning calling the Netherlands "Holland" is like calling the United States "Dakota" I knew I had much to learn this weekend.  

We headed to Amsterdam for a long weekend with plans for a three hour walking tour, a visit to the Anne Frank house and a day trip into the countryside. The rest of the time was unstructured with lots of time to explore the city. We had our backpacks with the few things we needed for the trip and left for our 9:50 am flight. After a bit of a delay leaving Geneva due to some security issues we departed on one of those clear blue sky days. I sat in a window seat and could see for miles. We flew over France and Belgium on our 1 1/2 hour flight towards the Netherlands. I saw the patchwork of fields and forests, the mountains and valleys with towns, the lakes, and in the sky, planes flew at all altitudes in all directions. 

Bicycle parking at the train station

Our hotel was only 15 minutes from the airport by train. Then an additional 15 minutes from our hotel to the city center by either Metro or train. Originally I had thought once we landed we would grab the train, drop our stuff off at the hotel, grab the train to the city and join a walking tour at 2:15 pm leaving us with just enough time to grab a lunch on the way. It was tight but doable. Unfortunately, our 1 hour delay in Geneva meant we missed the last walking tour of the day. So we grabbed a map from the tourist information area outside of Central Station and asked for directions to a place for a late lunch. They said just walk down Damrak Street and take your pick. Doug and I soon found plenty of options. My inability to speak Dutch was not a problem as most people in the Netherlands speak English as their second language. 

We were surprised by the number of people in the city. It was really busy. It takes a bit to figure out a new place; the transportation, the layout of the city, the way things are done. In Geneva, the pedestrian always has the right of way. In Amsterdam, the bicyclists rule the road. Truth was, there were far more bicycles in Amsterdam than people. 

Taking a break on Dam Square

We headed toward Dam Square, the middle of Amsterdam. The Amstel River used to flow through here until the river was rerouted by a dam (hence the name of the city) and the land reclaimed. The Royal Palace has been on this site since 1665 and is used by the monarchy for entertaining and state affairs still today. This palace is one of three used by the Royal family, King Willem and Queen Maxima. Also on the square was the Gothic style New Church (Nieuwe Kerk) which was built in the 1400's because the Old Church (Oude Kerk) was too small. The Dutch don't waste much time in naming their buildings. Inside the New Church was an exhibit about Netherlands's history and the Monarchy. We also learned Rembrandt was buried here in the mass pauper's grave located under the church.

A much needed break in Dam Square

It was late in the afternoon and many people were taking a break in the square. The National Monument to the victims of WWII stood at the end of the square representing suffering and resistance, peace and liberation. Seventy five percent of the Jewish population of Netherlands was killed during WWII and many citizens starved to death during the famine of 1944. 

We continued walking through the historic old town and discovered many things along the way. We walked through the Flower Market filled with tub after tub of different colored tulip bulbs. Rows of pink, yellow and purple flowers hung from the ceiling while we walked through areas filled with Bird of Paradise blooms, fragrant hydrangeas and lilies. 

The houses of Amsterdam

We remarked how beautiful the architecture was in the city as we walked past narrow brick buildings built next to the sidewalk or canal. The brown, red, orange, and black bricks all blended to create a cohesive pleasant appeal. The roof heights varied giving each building its unique look. The buildings leaned forward a bit and there was a pulley system fastened to the top story. We learned most things used to be delivered by boat on the canals and then the goods were pulled up through the windows. Some of the buildings leaned because the foundation was built on the bog and the pilings were damaged. All buildings in the Netherlands are built on wooden poles sunk deep in the ground. The streets were narrow; paved with red, maroon, and yellow colored brick in herringbone patterns. 

Enjoying the sun in Vondelpark

Refreshing time in the Rijksmuseum gardens

We made our way to Vondelpark, a large urban park designed in the 1800's. It was a lovely warm, blue sky day and the park was filled with people enjoying the sun. We sat, took our shoes off, relaxed and watched people ride their bikes on the many paths. There were all kinds of bikes; thick tires, thin tires, new, old, bikes with plastic tote baskets, ones with large wooden baskets, some with seats for children by the handlebars, others with a child seat behind the biker. There were bikers riding side by side, two people sharing the same bike, people riding dressed in suits, others in shorts out for a Saturday afternoon ride. We saw a wedding reception, people enjoying picnics and others out for a stroll. While a concert played we walked around the pond with a fountain, in the shade of the trees until we left the park.
We wandered towards the Museumplein where we grabbed pictures of the "IAMsterdam" letters. The Rijksmuseum was right ahead of us but since it was almost closing time we enjoyed their gardens for a bit. The gardens were perfectly manicured, filled with blooming flowers and statues. The sight of the brilliant blue sky against the bright green tree leaves just made me feel happy inside. It was a great place to rest.

Boats were everywhere, best people watching time

All day we had been intrigued by the number of boats touring the canals. There were so many different kinds of boats of all shapes and sizes. The canals were full of people having a good time. We stopped with a crowd to listen to a group of 9 men singing. They had microphones and a sound system. Boats in the canal stopped to tie their boats together with ropes to create a barge of sorts. People were sitting or standing along the sides of the canal, on the bridges, hanging out the windows of the houses near the boat all the while singing along, dancing, and clapping when the song finished. It was the place to be. 

After a while we started walking again. We found Rembrandt's plaza with a statue of Rembrandt of course, the Opera House, the wide Amstel River. We crossed many bridges over numerous canals, passed many restaurants, small shops and homes. After dinner we walked past the red light district and the Old Church and eventually returned to Central Station. It had been quite a full day.

The land was flat, with many canals and few trees. On our countryside bus tour our guide told us 75% of the Netherlands is less than a meter above sea level with much of it being below sea level. Flooding has always been a problem in the Netherlands and since 1000 AD ingenious people have figured out how to reroute water and reclaim land below sea level. They used dikes, canals and pumping systems to reclaim land that once belonged to the sea. They even changed a large sea into the largest fresh water lake in Europe using this method. 

She asked, "who likes cheese"

During our trip we saw small fields filled with cows and sheep surrounded by small canals. A bridge connected the fields so the farmer could travel from one area to another.  It takes five to seven years to reclaim land and turn it into farmland. We learned the Netherlands is the third highest exporter of agricultural products (behind the US and France) in a significantly smaller country. There are no suburbs in the Netherlands; land is needed for farming.

We stopped in Volendam, a small town where we learned how Edam cheese is made. Then we got to taste many different kinds of flavored, young and aged cheese. My favorite was the young herb cheese. Doug and I walked through the town, noticed the small homes with adorable small gardens at the front door. We quickly arrived at the end of town and saw a few small land masses out across the harbor. 

This larger homes had attic rooms

Our tour continued with a 20 minute harbor cruise to the town of Marken. The captain of our ship told us the channel was only 9 feet deep and if he left the channel we'd be stuck. We had about 30 minutes to grab lunch and explore. Doug and I chose to walk first and eat later if there was still time. The town was so cute. Most of the houses were one story dwellings the size of a cabin. The front door opened onto the narrow street, many too narrow for a car. We would look to the end of the street and it would dead end into the canal or a field. The backyards were small with just enough space for a table or a few children's toys. There was still room for a pasture for sheep and chickens. We walked over the 3 foot wide canals on drawbridges and soon realized we were back where we started. There was a street vendor selling fresh calamari and cod so we grabbed a bite and sat on the edge of the pier overlooking the harbor. 

While we were in Marken we saw a clog-making demonstration. It was fascinating. The clogs are made out of Poplar wood because they are waterproof when the wood dries. They used a 70 year old duplicating machine and made a clog in less than 10 minutes. Then after sanding them the clogs are hung to dry for 2 weeks before they are painted. We even got to try Stroopwafel while we were there. The thin waffle had caramel in the middle and was topped with sugar and cinnamon; they were delicious.

The oil mill

Our tour continued to Zaanse Schans to see the traditional windmills that were a common site in the Netherlands. Now there are only a few left. The one we toured was used to make oil. Our guide kept talking about making oil and I literally didn't get it until we entered the windmill and I saw the process. The windmill was making oil out of linseed. It was a windy day so the sails on the windmill had been trimmed back to slow down the big stones that were grinding the seeds. This process wasted nothing. The seed was pressed by the huge stone (weighing 5000 pounds) over and over until it made "flour". This was then heated to separate the oil. Once most of the oil was released, the remaining material was put in the pressing machine where a huge wooden log pounded it over and over turning it into a solid cake. If there was any oil still there after the heating process it was all pressed out and collected now. The linseed oil was used to make paint and varnish and the solid cake was used to feed the cows. It would take a year for this windmill to produce as much oil as a factory can make in 10 minutes. Doug and I climbed up the steep vertical wooden ladder to walk around the outside of the windmill. We saw the flat farmland, the bike trails, the canal and the rest of the town from our vantage point just 12 feet off the ground.

Sail Amsterdam 2015

It was still early when we got back to Amsterdam. We knew Sail Amsterdam 2015 was occurring while we were in town. This event celebrated the Netherlands rich nautical history and 50 of the world's biggest sailing ships attended along with thousands of smaller sailing vessels. The event only occurs every 5 years. People had come from all over the Netherlands to see these ships which was why the canals were filled with every kind of boat imaginable. We went to the final thank you parade along with 450,000 people to see the ships leave the harbor. Doug and I had never seen so many boats and ships on the water at one time. The tall sailing ships were beautiful. It was amazing to watch the sails go up as the ships prepared to leave. It was even more amazing to watch all the people both on shore and in the boats taking part in this Sail event. I was glad we could be a part of it.

It was a 10 minute walk to Central station where we grabbed the tram to the Anne Frank House. I had tried to get tickets online but none were available so we waited in the short line to get our tickets. I spoke with a mom from Israel who was taking her young daughter to visit the place where Anne and 7 people hid for 2 years until they were taken prisoner and sent to the concentration camps. As I walked through the small rooms I thought not only about Anne and her family but also about the perspective of this young Jewish girl.

A sanctuary in the middle of the city

We joined a walking tour before we left Amsterdam and our guide, Kendra, shared the history along with the sites of Amsterdam. We learned about Dutch values, customs, architecture and parenting styles. My highlight was the hidden entrance to one of Amsterdam's oldest inner courtyards. It felt like I had stepped back in time as I walked down through an arched doorway into an enclosed green courtyard. It was here that persecuted French Catholic sisters came to live. The Netherlands has always valued freedom and the sisters knew they were safe here. The courtyard was 3 feet lower than the surrounding area because it was built during medieval times. The oldest wooden house in Amsterdam was here; there are only two wooden homes remaining in the city. We entered a building that had been a secret Catholic church during Catholicism was banned in the city. It had been built to look like a residence from the outside but retained many of the features of a Catholic church inside. Now of course there is no need for it to be secret. At the end of the tour we had time for lunch and some shopping before we headed to the airport and began our journey back to Geneva. 

I enjoyed learning about the history of the Netherlands but it was speaking with the people who call the Netherlands home that made history come alive for me.

Irish Blessings

The Irish have a wonderful way to greet people. To say "welcome" is not enough. Instead they say "Céad míle fáilte" which means "a hundred thousand welcomes". That is exactly how we felt in Ireland. Everywhere we went the people were so friendly and kind. 

At King John's Castle in Limerick City

Doug and I were able to spend 3 1/2 days in Ireland and loved every moment. Doug's dad, Bill, shared a little family history with us. Peter McKinley Sr., a farmer from near Belfast, immigrated from Ireland in the late 1700's and eventually settled in Missouri. History and family ties have always inspired me and this was another chance to learn more about our heritage. We have travelled to many different countries over the last 6 months but this was the first place where English was the primary language spoken. We learned that only 3 percent of the people in Ireland speak Irish as their first language. All of the signs were written in Irish first and then in English immediately below. A smile broke out on both of our faces as we read and understood the things going on around us. 

The Liffey River at sunrise in Dublin

We arrived at the Dublin airport, grabbed the Airlink Express Bus and headed to central Dublin 20 minutes away. The Dergvale Hotel, a quaint family-run Bed and Breakfast with 20 rooms, was a short walk away from where the bus dropped us off. As soon as we entered the hotel we were treated like guests of the family. We left our backpacks in our room and walked down O'Connell Street to the Beshoff Restaurant for a traditional dinner of fish and chips. It was a great way to begin our adventure. 

We wanted to see as much of the Ireland countryside as we could so we booked a couple of bus tours. Our first tour left Dublin at 6:30 in the morning for a trip to the Giant's Causeway, about 160 miles to the north. 

The views of through Antrim 

Our tour bus was comfortable; our guide, Bud, knowledgeable and funny. The views out our large window were amazing. I expected the countryside to be green but I was unprepared for the vibrant, intense color of bright green everywhere I looked. We crossed into Northern Ireland without any border patrol even though we were now in part of the United Kingdom. After about 2 hours we went through Belfast knowing we would stop there on our way back to Dublin. The landscape fascinated me and my eyes darted from one gorgeous view to the next. The coastal drive was spectacular as Bud drove past grazing cows and sheep hedged in with short stone walls, through small towns and villages and along the shore of the Irish Sea. Since we were only 5 nautical miles from the coast of Scotland we kept scanning the horizon for a glimpse of it but that was not to be for us. It was slightly overcast and a bit hazy as we looked out over the water. 

We left the coast and traveled through one of the green glens of Antrim. We began at the bottom of the U-shaped valley, rode up the hill on a narrow curvy road, and were rewarded with a panoramic view of the glen and sea below us. 

The coast at Carrick Island

We stopped at the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge near Ballintoy. For over 350 years fishermen have crossed a rope bridge to this tiny island catching the salmon leaving the sea to spawn in the river. Now it is used mostly by tourists catching a view of the coast and surrounding small islands. We walked through the gentle rolling hills for about 20 minutes before we reached the bridge. On one side of us, the sheep and cows nibbled on tuffs of grass. On the other, waves crashed against the shore far below us sending a cold spray of water into the air. Since we only had an hour here I decided I would take pictures on my way back to the bus and we went right to the bridge. 

We waited for a short time since only 8 people were allowed on the suspension bridge at a time. Hanging 100 feet above the sea, a small rope bridge connected Ireland to Carrick Island. 

It's fine, no problem

We held onto the ropes as we walked across on wooden boards. The island composed of volcanic rock jutted up out of the sea just 70 feet away. We felt the gentle sway of the bridge as other footsteps followed us. The mist started to fall and we saw a storm quickly approaching. The wind picked up and we knew our time was limited. On the island we saw the nearby scattering of small islands in the aqua and gray sea, the waves crashing against the rocks, the 100 foot sheer drop to the water, small grasses and moss growing in the volcanic rock. The smell of the salty sea air was so pleasant and brought back pleasant memories of times spent at the ocean. We felt the mist intensify and reluctantly retreated to the bus. This time the suspension bridge swayed a little more as the wind blew stronger. I did take a few pictures on the walk back and was thankful our next stop was lunch.

Ballentoy Harbor

Our lunch stop was in Ballentoy, a small fishing village just 15 minutes down the road. Ballentoy is most known for being the site where the TV series "Game of Thrones" filmed scenes for the fictional medieval town of Lordsport. In the Fullerton Arms restaurant we sat at family style tables and enjoyed learning more about the people on our tour bus. Our waitress took orders from all 60 of us. Then servers came out carrying a dish from the 4 choices on the menu. So you just raised your hand if you ordered what they were carrying and everyone was served in a matter of minutes. By the way, the Irish Stew was delicious, hot and filling. 

The weather had cleared by the time we left the restaurant and we headed to Giant's Causeway. 

Wow, so amazing

According to Irish folklore the formations were formed by giant Finn MacCool in an attempt to fight a Scottish giant, Benandonner. Legend says Finn built the perfect hexagon tubes and stacked them next to each other creating a beautiful walkway all the way to Scotland. When Benandonner came to fight, he was much bigger than Finn thought and so he hid. Finn's wife saved the day with her shrewdness and the pathway was torn apart as Scotland's giant ran back home. 

When Doug and I arrived at the Giant's Causeway we couldn't believe the formations. We had never seen anything like it. They were surreal, spectacular and perfectly spaced like a puzzle fitting together. The waves crashed against the volcanic rock as we sat staring at the Atlantic Ocean. 

Hiking at Giant's Causeway

There was a path that went up the cliff leading back to our bus. We walked up the hill past the "Giant's boot", paused at the "Organ" and then climbed the 162 rock steps called "Shepherd's Path" that led to the green pastures at the top of the formation. The panoramic view from the top of the cliff was worth the climb!

It was time for our tour to head back to Dublin but there was still much to see. We stopped for a view of the medieval Dunluce Castle which was home to the McDonnell Clan for many years. The family lived there in the 1500's but it has been abandoned since 1690. This castle was an inspiration for C.S. Lewis's "Chronicles of Narina" fictional castle Clair Paravel.

Belfast City Hall 

We arrived in Belfast at 5:30 and spent an hour exploring the city. Much of what I knew about Ireland was what I had heard in the news during the 70's and 80's. Bud, our tour guide, talked about the times of the "Great Troubles" referring to the 30 years of violence in Northern Ireland from 1969-1997. There was a lot of fighting between the British unionists and the Ireland nationalists. He told us about a time when he was sitting in a Belfast cafe and noticed a man leave without his backpack. He decided he "could die in the restaurant or die in the street" so he quickly grabbed the backpack, raced out the door, threw the backpack as far away as he could and ducked. The blast occurred seconds later. 

Symbol of Hope, Peace and Reconciliation

Doug and I walked the streets of Belfast for about an hour. We discovered City Hall in Donnegal Square which is a 1 1/2 acre park with many memorials and statues. There was a Titanic memorial there for the victims because this was where the ship was built. We walked to Queen's Square and saw the Albert Memorial clock built in 1869 which leans because it was built on reclaimed marsh land. The Belfast Waterfront and the River Lagan drew our attention where we saw the Queen's Bridge and a sculpture of the "Harmony of Belfast" symbolizing unity,hope, aspiration, peace and reconciliation. Nearby stood a ceramic big blue fish sculpture aptly named "The Big Fish" covered with student's drawings which told the history of Belfast. We grabbed a few souvenirs as we walked through a few shops and headed back to the bus for our return to Dublin. It had been a full day.

Dublin Castle 

After a good night sleep and a traditional Irish breakfast of eggs, ham and bread we headed out to see Dublin. We took a walking tour and enjoyed seeing the sights through the eyes of a Dublin resident. Conor, our tour guide, brought us to his favorite places. We began at the courtyard outside of Dublin City Hall and walked through the justice gate into plaza of the Dublin Castle. Conor shared the history of Ireland from the 1100's to the present time in a matter of 15 minutes. He loved theater and was quite entertaining. We entered the Dubh Linn Gardens and heard how Dublin got its name. These gardens were created not only as a place to rest but also as a helicopter landing pad. Conor expressed his Irish passion as he talked about President Obama's visit and the visit by Queen Elizabeth II. We could hear the national pride and hope in his voice as he expressed how significant it was for the British Queen to step foot on Irish land. 

The streets of Dublin

We walked on the cobblestone streets, past Christ Church Cathedral, to the theater district and then Temple Bar. Conor shared stories about Paul David Hewson, a musician who started in Dublin. Doug recognized the story earlier than I did and knew Conor was talking about Bono. 

We saw the Liffey River and the Dublin Spire marking the location of the Easter Uprising of 1916. The civil war lasted 5 years and ended with a treaty between the U.K. and Ireland. We then walked onto the campus of Trinity College where we learned about the history of the school and book of Kells that is in the library there. 

The people we met in our tour group were fascinating, from all over the world and shared bits of their story with us. We enjoyed conversations with the family from Belfast traveling with two small boys, the family from Texas who had been golfing in Scotland, the businessman from Israel who traveled to Ohio, the husband and wife from France and the group from Italy who were on a holiday trip. 

After a delicious lunch of BBQ at Pitt Bros we headed for a bit of exploring, some shopping an afternoon tea and a walk through Temple Bar in the evening. The music was good, the people watching great. We enjoyed our conversation with a couple from Dublin during dinner before our evening stroll back to the hotel.

We took a second bus tour to the west coast of Ireland to see the Cliffs of Moher. Our bus driver, Liam, told us about the history of Ireland and battles fought as we traveled across the country. Our first stop was in Limerick City. The bloodiest battle ever fought in Ireland happened in this city in 1690 and was won by King John of England. There is a monument at the Shannon River of the Treaty Stone signifying the end of the battle. The treaty was signed on this stone but it wasn't long before it was disregarded. 

That's a lot of rock wall

As we traveled across Ireland we saw stone walls dividing the land into small sections.The walls were about 3-4 feet tall and crisscrossed the fields. Some held sheep or cows, some had crops of hay or straw. The land was filled with large stones which had to be removed before the crops could be planted. It was hard to imagine the amount of work it took to move all those stones. We learned many of the walls were built during the Potato famine of 1845. The Irish people would not take money without working so the landlords had them build these walls all over the countryside and paid them with food. Still many starved or emigrated to other countries during that desperate time. 

The edge of the Cliff

We arrived at the Cliffs of Moher on the western coast of Ireland, 175 miles from Dublin. The Cliffs took our breath away. They were so high from the Atlantic Ocean, so green, so stunning. We laid down and peered over the edge and slowly backed away. The water was 600 feet below us. It was lovely to walk along the edge, look out over the water, and take it all in. The birds were flying below us and nesting in the cliffs. The waves hit against the rocks. We walked for over an hour until it was time to return to the bus.

The Burren landscape

We stopped next at the Burren which was much more barren than the Cliffs of Moher. In fact I didn't think anything could grow here and yet because of its unique climate it has one of the longest growing seasons in Ireland. Many flowers and grasses find a way to grow in the cracks of the limestone in the 100 square miles of the Burren. Goats, cows, sheep all find food among the rocks. People have lived here for centuries. It was all quite intriguing.

We saw the Dunguaire Castle built in the 1500's in the small village of Kinvara. It sits on an outcropping rock high above the water. Since its restoration in 1920 it was been used as a venue for plays and poetry. 

The Abbey

Our last stop was at Corcomroe Abbey, a 13th century abbey in the secluded hills of the Burren. We walked inside the walls, paused at the cemetery and marveled at how the monks sought this solitude, built this abbey from the stone around them and lived off of the land. 

We learned a lot of Ireland's history in these last few days. We could still feel a tension at times but a sense of hope was strong regarding the future of Ireland.

Views from the Cliffs of Moher

It seemed fitting to end with this Irish Blessing. 

May the road rise to meet you,

May the wind be always at your back,

May the sun shine warm upon your face,

The rains fall soft upon your fields and,

Until we meet again,

May God hold you in the palm of His hand.

More Cow Bell

Hiking in Saleve

Aren't they just the cutest

We enjoyed hiking on Saleve, a mountain just across the Switzerland border. On one of our recent hikes we chose a trail leading to a panoramic view of the Alps. We frequently stopped to admire the beauty in front of us. As we hiked along the trail we passed through farmer's fields, crossing the fence into their pastures. I felt like I was trespassing but the sign posts clearly marked the trail so we continued on. I was a little concerned while I was inside the fence because I knew the reason for the fence was to keep the animals in. I kept one eye on the view and one eye watching for the bull I was sure was waiting for me.
As we walked up and down the hills we heard the cows, actually we heard the bells around their necks. We could tell the bells were different sizes as the sounds were clearly different tones. I was so excited when we happened upon the herd and saw them wearing their bells. Thankfully, they were on the other side of the fence and there was no bull in sight. We finished this hike glad we heard the cow bells.

The path in the park

One evening while Doug and I were out on our evening walk we decided to take the tram to a place we hadn't explored yet. Doug knew there was a park in the area and so we tried to find it. We walked through a beautiful neighborhood with small homes and courtyards, perfectly manicured hedges, and quiet streets. We found the park at the end of the street and a map sign giving us a general idea of where we were headed. It was so peaceful as we walked the paths through the woods near the Rhone river bank. We were aware of the fact that it was getting late and since we didn't have a flashlight we decided to head back. We took a path leading away from the river and ended up walking through another farmer's field. This time though there were no sign posts leading the way. Once again I was listening for cow bells, this time hoping not to hear any. The only cow we saw this time was the cow statue on the lawn of the farmer's house.

The farmer's front lawn

I learned a few things about the reason cows wear bells in Switzerland when I visited MEG (Geneva Ethnography Museum). Cows are brought to the pastures in the Alps during the summer. So cow bells were hung around the necks of cows to help locate and organize the herd. The bells not only made noise but they actually composed a recognizable tune that the farmer could identify. Bells of different tones were assigned to the cows depending on how the cow walked, how big they were and where in the herd the cow would walk. This made perfect sense to me as I recalled all the times I would help call the cows home at grandma's farm and they always walked in the same order, single file.

Serious ceremonial cow bells 

It is too difficult to get the milk down the mountains everyday in the summer so the farmers make cheese while the cows are living in the mountains for four months. Since there are no cheese factories in the Alps all the cheese is made daily over an open fire in a large cooper vat. At the end of summer many towns celebrate the day that the cows come home out of the mountains. It marks the end of the alpine cheese production. This alpine cheese is highly valued because of the quality of the milk from which it is made. On the morning of the last Saturday of September the farmers dress in their traditional working clothes, decorate their cows with huge ceremonial bells and lead them down the mountain while the yodelers, alphorn players and people cheer. We will miss seeing this festival.

The Hills are Alive

On the train headed to Salzburg

I couldn't help but think of my mom as Doug and I boarded the train headed to Salzburg, Austria. Salzburg is well known for the "Sound of Music" musical; it's one of mom's favorites. While researching our Munich trip I realized we could easily get to Salzburg from there.

We loved traveling the two hours on the train from Munich to Salzburg. The trains were comfortable, clean and provided great views of the countryside. Unfortunately it was raining but we had our rain gear and were ready for the adventure. We had booked a tour since we knew we only had a short time in the city and wanted to see as much as we could. Susan, our tour guide, shared her wealth of knowledge with us.

Pegasus in Mirabell Gardens

Our tour began at the Mirabell Palace built in 1606 by the Archbishop von Raitenau for his mistress and their 15 children. The baroque Palace is used as a Municipal building today. The Gardens, designed in 1690, were beautifully manicured. The pink, yellow and red flowers were lovely against the green grass. The pathways lined with trees created a walkway from the Palace towards a view of the Fortress at the top of the hill. We stood around the Pegasus statue and walked down the steps where the "von Trapp family" played and sang "do-re-mi".

We walked across the Salzach River on a bridge covered with love locks. Padlocks with the initials of the lovers were locked onto the bridge signifying the permanence of the relationship. The custom began over 100 years ago in Italy but only recently became popular in the rest of Europe. The city and river got its name from the salt mines in the area. The mine in Salzburg has been worked for over 7000 years and the river was used to transport the salt throughout the region making this area an important transportation route. That, and the gold that was mined here too.

The Salzach River and Salzburg Cathedral

Wolfgang Mozart was born in Salzburg so of course we saw the house where he was born and the house where the family lived during his teen years. Mozart could already play the piano and violin by the time he was 4 and was composing music by the time he was five. I think I was still learning how to tie my shoes. There were stores selling candy made in his honor; for the tourists mostly I think. We chose not to try them and saved our treat for the awesome looking Bavarian pretzels. I think we made the right choice; the hardest part was choosing which pretzel flavor to try.

Even McDonald's sign has to be like the rest

While we walked down Getreidegasse street we saw signs above the doors that indicated what products the store sold. These signs have been used for centuries and new stores must use them still today. People have lived in Salzburg since 15 BC and due the illiteracy of the peasants during that time pictures were used to tell the story. I have been using this method as I shop for 6 months now and it is very effective.

We saw Alter Markt where dairy products, herbs, turnips and cabbages had been sold since the 13th century and also where dances and festivals were held. St. Florian's statue has sat on the well in the center of the market since 1488. Wells were important not only for drinking water but also to put out the frequent fires in the city. Cafe Tomaselli, where Mozart had his coffee, occupied a corner of the square.

The fountain in front of the New Palace

We wandered through the narrow streets lined with four story tall buildings. Laundry hung outside the open windows telling us of life behind the doors. There were no sidewalks needed as everyone just walked in the street. No cars were allowed in the old city. Almost half of Salzburg was damaged by bombing at the end of WWII but much of the old city was spared and the Baroque architecture unharmed. This helped the old city keep its charm. We rounded a corner and entered the Residenzplatz. The Residenzplatz is a large plaza in the center of the old city. The square is formed by the old palace with 180 rooms, the new larger palace (the first one wasn't big enough for family visitors), the Salzburg Cathedral and a few historic residences. Since the mid 1600's a large baroque marble fountain of horses and dolphins has occupied the center of the plaza. I loved seeing the horses and carriages lined up at the old palace ready to give rides around the old city. The clip clop of the hooves on the cobblestones helped me imagine what this city sounded like in the Middle Ages.

The ornate Salzburg Cathedral

The Salzburg Cathedral captured our attention as we stood in front of the entrance. In the 1600's it was built out of white marble from the nearby Alps but there has been a church on this site since 774. When the original church was severely damaged this current building was built on the old foundation. There were four statues at the three entrance doors; St Rupert holding a salt barrel, St. Peter holding keys, St. Paul holding a sword and St Virgilius holding a church. Inside the Cathedral were high arched ceilings covered with ornate carvings. We sat inside for a few moments appreciating our surroundings.

A large stage filled the Domplatz (courtyard of the church) because the 2015 Salzburg Festival was occurring and concerts were happening throughout the city for 6 weeks. We heard music everywhere; violins, guitars, accordions, water goblets all sounded beautiful in the hands of skilled musicians.

Inside St. Peter's Abbey

Our tour continued to St. Peter's Abbey, a monastery that has been here since 696. Mozart often played in the Abbey. When Mozart was 13 he composed the Dominic us Mass for the Abbot and later conducted his famous Mass in C minor in this church. Every year this work is performed here during the Salzburg Festival.

I especially enjoyed the painting on the ceiling depicting Peter walking on the water but all of the paintings were inspiring.

Next to the church is a restaurant founded by the monks of the Abbey over a thousand years ago. It has served traditional Austrian food since 803. We peeked inside to see the restaurant courtyard and the rooms cut out of the mountain.

We walked through St. Peter's cemetery alongside the side of the Abbey. It is where the "Sound of Music" filmed the von Trapp's escape from the Nazi's.

Hohensalzburg Fort from the Abbey cemetery

Next we headed up the steep hill to the Hohensalzburg Fortress. We decided to climb the stairs (instead of taking the funicular) and loved looking out over the city as we climbed higher and higher. It took about 15 minutes to climb and the walk was beautiful. We entered through a series of gates that could be closed with the solid wooden doors hanging on thick metal rods. Even this entrance was steep. The 940 year old fortress was well protected on this hill. There were 50 buildings within the walls of the fortress and we wandered around the huge fortress for over an hour. The Prince's bedroom was decorated with shiny buttons on the ceilings representing the stars. There were ornately decorated stoves in the rooms to keep them heated, a golden hall for meetings and a golden chamber as a receiving room within the apartment. We saw the kitchens used to prepare food. The torture chamber included many horrible instruments used to punish prisoners including stocks and a bed of nails. We climbed the watchtower with its 360 degree view of Salzburg. Thankfully the skies had cleared a bit by this time and we could see the mountains surrounding the city.

Sound of Music marionettes

One of the rooms was used as a Marionette museum so we checked out all the different scenes describing life in Salzburg including the life in the palace, the salt mines, and the life of Mozart. There was even one on the Sound of Music. The string puppets have been great entertainment in Salzburg since 1916 and are still used today to present full length opera performances.

Sadly enough it was time to leave Salzburg. We loved our time in the city. There will always be more to discover but for now we echo "so long, farewell, auf wiedersehen, adieu." 

A day in Munich

The Hofbrauhaus in Munich

Friday afternoon we headed 580 kilometers northeast to Munich, Germany. We had been told we were traveling on one of the 3 black weekends when a trip could take an additional 7 hours due to high vacation traffic. We were prepared for the journey with snacks, drinks and a good GPS. I guess we fared better than most as we only had an additional 1 1/2 hour travel time. Gen, our GPS, rerouted us at one point due to the dense traffic and we travelled through a few small towns, along country roads, and across a one lane wooden bridge built in 1863. We saw farmers handpicking cabbage and broccoli, trucks loaded with flats of produce, workers with hoes weeding the row crops by hand. It was great. I have to admit though I breathed a sigh of relief when after about 30 minutes I saw the sign pointing us back to the freeway.

I wasn't nervous about the drive to Germany like I was when we went to Italy. In Italy, there are signs posted everywhere to let you know the roads are patrolled by cameras watching you every moment. Doug and I do our best to follow the rules but sometimes the language barrier and speed traps make it confusing. In Germany, the rules of the road are different; there are no speed limits on the autobahn and the only rule is to stay out of the way. Not an easy thing to do. Cars come up quickly when they are exceeding 120 mph. There was one watch out though. We would be traveling for about 10 minutes through Austria and needed to purchase a toll sticker for 9.50 Euro before getting on the toll road or be subjected to a "special tax" of 250 Euro (read stiff fine). We bought our vignette sticker at a BP station 10 miles from the border just to be safe.

camping looks differently here

The drive was spectacular. It was a blue sky day with a few white wispy clouds hanging over the
mountains. We saw bison with their babies, cows dotting the hillsides, fields of sunflowers, corn and baled straw. We saw houses attached to barns truly making the cows part of the family. We saw huge perfectly stacked wood piles and fields filled with solar panels. We were puzzled by groups of people in trailers camping in the middle of fields and parking lots. We passed towns scattered among the hills and beautiful glistening blue lakes. At one point we came out of a tunnel, rounded the corner and I just stopped talking. For just an instant the snow capped Alps stood majestically before us. It was as if one could reach out and touch them.We drove through a small Austrian town that had flowers in all the window boxes. We drove through two border crossings without anyone stopping us at border control. After driving through a tunnel we entered Germany. In Germany we drove through the state of Baden Wurttemburg and then entered Bavaria. The checkered squares of golden wheat fields and deep green corn stalks stood out against the brilliant blue sky. In the distance we could see the Bavarian Alps. Munich was 2 1/2 hours from the Austrian border and time flew by almost as fast as the cars speeding past us. We played the license plate game where we kept track of how many countries (22) and Swiss cantons (23 out of 26) the cars came from. Our hotel was perfect with free parking, WiFi and breakfast, close to the bus and metro and easily accessible from the freeway.

Marienplatz with Mary's Column 

We decided to explore Munich with a free walking tour. It was a great decision. Our tour guide showed us things we never would have found without his guidance. It was a partly cloudy day but warm enough for shorts and great for exploring. The Metro, tram and trains were easy to use in Munich and we were only 10 minutes from city center.

The Clock tower has 32 figures and 43 bells

Marienplatz (Mary's square) was where we began our tour. We saw the New Town Hall built in 1908 that looked more like a church than a government building because of its Gothic facade. We watched the world famous Glockenspiel (clock) performance as life sized knights on horseback jousted celebrating the marriage of Duke Wilheim V in 1568. The second half of the performance told the story of the cooper's dance and their help during the plague of 1517. We stayed until the rooster crowed 3 times which signified the end of the show.

Old Town Hall

We heard the story about the statue in the center of Marienplatz, the main square in Munich since 1158. The statue was topped with a golden statue of the Virgin Mary. The column was put there in 1638 to celebrate the end of the Swiss occupation after a 30 year war.

Across the plaza was the Old Town Hall. It was here that Goebbels gave the speech that began the Night of Broken Glass in 1938 where 30,000 Jews were arrested and numerous synagogues, homes and businesses burned. Now the building is used as a toy museum.

The Frauenkirche

The Frauenkirche, the Cathedral of our Dear Lady, was built in 20 years; impressive since it was built in 1468. The twin towers are the highest site in Munich because city mandate does not allow any building to be taller than the towers. The Cathedral was not like other cathedrals we have visited. The outside was a large nondescript red brick building. Inside there was a double row of 72 foot tall white columns down the entire center aisle with stained glass windows along the walls. Our guide told us the legend explaining the dark footprint in the floor at the entrance. Legend says it was made by the devil while the building was constructed (or perhaps the architect did it).

We walked past the Bavarian State Opera House, the prestigious Bayerischer Hotel where we saw a makeshift memorial to Michael Jackson, and down Maximillianstrasse, the famous high end shopping street where spending 1000 euro a day is normal for some people. Since none of us were shopping we headed to Odeonsplatz, the square where so much history has occurred. The square is formed by 3 buildings: the Theatine Church, the Munich Residenz and the Hall of Generals.

Ornate carvings inside the Theatine Church 

We entered the Theatine Church and sat in a pew for a moment staring at the white domed ceilings, the ornate carvings, the huge paintings high on the walls. It was built in the opulent Baroque style so there was quite a bit to take in. This church had been built in the 15th century and the outside was covered in scaffolding for remodeling. The scaffolding itself was a bit of a marvel.

Directly across from the church was the Munich Residenz, the former palace of Bavaria. I was surprised at how large it was. There were four 400 year old statues of brass lions with shiny noses in front of the palace. Residents and tourists touched the lion's nose for good luck as they walked past.

The Lions at the Hall of Generals 

The Hall of Generals completed the square. The memorial was built in 1844 to honor the generals who fought in the 30 year war and in the fight against Napoleon. Many parades and speeches have taken place here including ones by Hitler. I learned the right hand salute is now illegal in Germany but during WWII people were required to salute the memorial and were imprisoned if they didn't. Directly behind the memorial is a street the German resistance fighters would take to avoid walking past the memorial. Munich has placed gold bricks in the street to remember these fighters.

3 floor beer hall from the 16th century

We headed to the Hofbrauhaus for a bit of a break. The famous beer hall was built in the 14th century so the royal court could have beer. They were the only ones who could drink this beer. Now, 10,000 liters of beer are consumed inside this building every day! That's a lot of beer. Beer has been such a part of Munich's culture there is even a Bavarian Beer Purity law which allows only barley, water, hops and yeast to be used in the brewing. One third of all the beer in Munich is consumed during the 16 days of Oktoberfest. Wow! Inside the Hofbrauhaus we listened to the Bavarian band, watched men dressed in lederhosen and women in drindls, and saw signs hanging over tables celebrating groups of people who have sat at the same table once a week for at least 3 years. We even saw lockers where people store their mugs. It was quite an experience.

Munich's Maypole story

We ended our tour in the fresh food market called Viktualienmarkt. People were sitting under the trees at long wooden tables with a mug of beer in hand, some dressed in traditional clothes, all having a good time with family and friends. The market was filled with individual carts and booths selling fresh meat, fruits, honey, vegetables, spices, wine and tea. The Maypole in the center of the square told the history of the town - Bavarian monks made good beer, there was a plaque, dancing and beer drinking went together, and there are 6 beer companies in Munich.

Since our tour had concluded Doug and I went to explore Munich on our own. We found the Holy Ghost Church which was holding a modern art exhibit called Clouds. Thousands of white strings hung from the ceiling which symbolized clouds. Numerous white strings were strung onto a wooden frame set on the floor. People were encouraged to tie knots into the string and let go of those things weighing them down. We went back later in the evening to experience the music and light show. It was a lovely experience.

Resting at the Angel of Peace

I wanted to see the English Garden so we started walking. We walked through Maximillian Park, along the Isar River, and sat at the Angel of Peace statue. On the map it looked like we were just at the edge of the English Garden and we had already walked for an hour and a half. So we turned left and kept walking. We passed the Bavarian National Museum with beautiful red window boxes, and saw an entrance to a park. We had found it. It was worth the walk.

These surfers were crazy good

The English Garden covers 910 acres making it larger than New York's Central Park. We sat for a while watching people skillfully surf across a man-made wave. As soon as one person was kicked out by the wave the next surfer entered the wave. The surfers lined up on both sides of the wave and were so fun to watch.

The park was so much fun

The Chinese pagoda in the English garden serving German beer was our next stop. It seemed so multicultural. The park was beautiful with streams and pathways, trees and flowers, large open green spaces, people riding horses and bikes, birds singing, dogs playing in the streams, and of course beer.

A Hofbrau beer garden surrounded the Chinese pagoda. A band was playing Bavarian music, kids played on the playground and people sat at long wooden tables for a drink and a meal. We saw a lot of bridal parties, bachelor parties and a wedding reception in the hour we were there.

Peasant's feast with roast pork, pickled pork and sauerkraut, yum!

On our walk back to the center of town we stopped at the Munich War Memorial and walked through the Old Botanical Gardens. We headed to an Augustiner beer hall for dinner where we had pork roast, pickled pork (ham) and sausage. I had the best sauerkraut I have ever had in my life. It was warm with a slightly sweet taste and I loved it.

We got to see the Sendlinger Tor, one of the last remaining gates of the old city built in the 1300's, before we headed back to our hotel. We had walked over 20 miles and it was time to call it a day.

Munich's history is wide and varied but it has a totally different feel than Berlin because of how the city chose to remember WWII. The city was heavily bombed in WWII but has been rebuilt according to how it looked in the 1800's. The memorials were present but subtle; an honest remembrance of Munich's past. We know there was more to discover in this old city but we will have to leave it for another day.