Tuscany for two

Doug and I drove to Tuscany, Italy for a week of vacation. For months we had been looking forward to staying in the Italian Riviera. We chose a route we hadn't driven yet because we love experiencing new scenery. This trip was our longest one yet at 790 km and we went through 2 border crossings in 2 different languages (and road signs), numerous toll booths and 5 different weather patterns to get there. We chose the route near the coast to catch views of the Mediterranean along the way.

At the Frejus Tunnel

We were not disappointed. Tuscany is an area on the west coast of Italy covering almost 9000 square miles. The scenery was stunningly beautiful. We entered Italy through the 8 mile long Frejus tunnel in the Cottian Alps. Once into Italy, Doug and I kept staring out the window at the massive mountains which surrounded us. The shocking things to us were the medieval castles perched on top of the peaks, how far up the mountain the vineyards and olive groves were planted, and how totally remote and secluded some homes were on the side of the mountain. All along the route we saw square stucco homes painted in pastel cream, yellow, and peach colors. The terra cotta tiled roofs created a sense of unity between them. We saw farmland with fields of corn, wheat and sunflowers. We saw workers hand picking fields of tomatoes while in the next field people were hand planting new vegetable crops.

Walking to the beach

We drove through Massa and saw huge, white blocks of something. As we looked closer we realized it was marble that had been cut out of the mountain. The marble from this region has been used by the ancient Romans to build the Pantheon and by Michelangelo to sculpt David. It's also been used in the Peace Monument in Washington D.C. There was a lot of marble sitting there waiting to be used.

We traveled through many mountain tunnels on our drive. So many that I actually counted them. 95. That's a lot of tunnels and a road construction marvel. Each time we exited a tunnel we were amazed at the small towns and cities that hugged the sides of the mountain. We caught a few glimpses of the Sea as we continued to travel south. The temperature was warmer, the land more arid, and my excitement grew. We had arrived!

Moonlight talks

There's always a bit of apprehension when booking online in another country especially with a language barrier. Upon arrival, everything was as they said and more than we hoped. We were so happy with our accomodations. Our apartment was a delight. We had our own private garden in front of our unit that overlooked our beach on the Mediterranean Sea. In the mornings and evenings, we listened to the doves cooing and the cicadas singing while we lounged in our garden reading and sharing our thoughts. The resort was hidden in the Maremma Nature Park. We walked among pine trees, olive groves and palm trees as we went from our terraced hillside apartment to the beach.

Our beach chairs

I had looked at the weather forecast before we left Geneva and was prepared for 6 days of rain. On our first day the sky was cloudless and the most amazing blue so I was a bit confused but excited. We took advantage of the blessing. The next day we woke to the same blue sky and warm sun. I was puzzled. I rechecked my weather forecast again and realized I had been looking at Talamona, Italy instead of Talamone, Italy. One letter made a huge difference. Our new forecast was for an entire week of 90 degree sunshine days. No need for that rain gear!

Our pool and the view

We enjoyed basking in the sun and soaking up the gorgeous view surrounding us. We stayed in Talamone, a small fishing village that literally ended in the Mediterranean Sea. Our plans were to take advantage of the lounge chairs and umbrella at the beach in the mornings, head back for a late lunch, then enjoy pool time until dinner. On our evening walks we explored the fishing village, walked along the shoreline on the promenade, and wandered around our resort. It was perfect. Some days we even mixed it up with pool time in the mornings and beach time in the afternoon.

Windsurfers and kitesurfers sail across the bay

Talamone Bay is known for its windsurfing. While we were there, the warm wind came up every afternoon and the water was full of people windsurfing and kitesurfing. The bay was shallow and sandy for about 200 feet from the shore so people could practice a bit before they headed out across the bay. Doug and I watched with amazement as people sailed across the bay, caught some serious air up off the water, and turned on their boards with lightening speed. We counted over 50 colorful kites pulling people across the water with many windsurfers darting between them. Then, just as suddenly, the wind was gone along with the surfers.

We loved exploring the fishing village of Talamone.

Talamone, Italy

Talamone was a quaint city with sailboats and small fishing boats securely anchored in the harbor. Three story buildings hugged the steep, narrow streets, colorful flowers lined the sidewalks, and people ate outside on the cobblestone plaza at tables set with linen and wine glasses. We walked through the city and appreciated the simple life of the residents. As we looked over the ancient wall we saw many flights of stairs that led down to the Sea where people were swimming and playing. It was beautiful. And by the way, they had gelato! Peach strawberry was my favorite.

On top of the fortress

The sense of history was profound as we learned people have lived on this rocky hill since before 500 BC. The Romans fought for this strategic rock and took it over in 225 BC. Numerous battles have taken place here since then; the fortress destroyed, rebuilt and abandoned until the current fortress was built in 1300 AD. We went inside one evening and climbed to the top of the tower. I thought about the many people who stood watch on this tower guarding the city below.

Catching the sunset

One evening we sat at the end of the village overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. We watched the sky change colors as the sun set in the west and the moon shone above us. The Sea was calm and quiet and alluring. It stirred something up in me as we sat on the very edge at the top of the rock. A sense of longing, a sense of something new coming, and an excitement all at the same time.

What a view!

All too soon it was time to leave.

We won't forget our time spent in the Italian Riviera.

Delights in Paris

The view of the city

This was a girl's trip to Paris. Tracey Bailey and her daughter Gabby came to visit and we were headed to Paris for four days. They wanted to see everything so, of course, I had a plan in mind.

We arrived at the Paris Orly airport in the afternoon, bought our transportation tickets, took the train into the city and easily found our hotel. Our hotel information said it had air conditioning and we couldn't wait to see if it was true. Since we had been without AC, and it had hovered around 100 degrees for 2 weeks, this would be a much appreciated relief from the heat. We checked in and held our breath as we turned the key in the lock. Suddenly, we looked at each other, smiled and said "YES!" Our room was perfect and we knew we would sleep well in this room.

Standing in the street capturing a photo

After a short break we headed up the street to the Arc de Triomphe which was only 900 feet from our hotel. The Arc was built from 1806-1836 for the army of Napoleon I so they could "march home through arches of victory". The Arc is surrounded by a roundabout with twelve streets exiting off the circle. It is crazy driving at best. We found the underground stairs that led to the arch since crossing the street was hazardous. We stood at the flame that has burned at the base of this arch since 1923 for the Memorial of the Unknown Soldier. We climbed the 284 steps to the top and were rewarded with a spectacular view of the city. On our way down the steps we stopped at a photo exhibit of French soldier uniforms worn throughout history. It was sobering to think of the soldiers who had been called to fight in these uniforms and the wars they fought in.

Sunset in Paris

We grabbed the metro and headed to the Sacre Coeur Basilica. The basilica is located on the highest hill in Paris. We arrived at dusk and entered the white church. A group of people were praying and worshipping inside. We quietly walked around the basilica praying silently along with the parishioners. As we exited the church we looked out over the city of Paris just as the sun was setting and the lights came on. The worship occurring inside the basilica was in sharp contrast to the party happening on the steps. People were everywhere. We climbed down the stairs and stopped in Montmartre for dinner. We ordered dinner at our quaint outside table (set on a hill) as the stars shone bright in the sky. Our waiter was so friendly and kind. It was after midnight when we jumped back on the metro and headed to our hotel.

We were right; the AC was wonderful. After a great night's sleep and a nice breakfast we headed to the Apple Store. Yeah, that's right. The Apple Store. I forgot my phone charger in Geneva and Gabby and I were without our phones and cameras. Thankfully, we found the store, bought a charger and charged our phones before we headed out for the day. Since the store opened at 10am, we had time to walk through the Tuileries Garden first. The Gardens have seen a lot of changes since they were first created in 1564. Governments and rulers have come and gone. Trees and plantings have been restructured from an Italian Renaissance style to a playground to a formal French Garden. Sculptures have been added, removed and updated. They began as private gardens for the monarchy and changed to public gardens for all people. One thing remained throughout time; the beauty of the gardens continued to inspire and refresh all who entered.

Marie Antoinette's cell

Now that our phones/cameras were charged enough to get us through the day we headed to the Ile de la Cite, the island on the Seine where the medieval city of Paris began in 52 BC. There was a lot to see. Research had told me to buy a combined ticket for the Conciergerie and Sainte Chapelle at the Conciergerie because the lines were typically shorter there. This proved to be the best advice of the day since the line was nonexistent. This palace was built in the 6th century for the first king of France. In later years (you know, like in the 1300's) the Conciergerie became a notoriously tough prison with terrible living conditions. We walked through the halls, saw small prison cells, the courtyard for the women in prison, and the place where Marie Antoinette was held until her execution.

Amazing stained glass story

Then we walked to Sainte Chapelle, the chapel built in 1242 to house the Holy Relics of the Passion of Christ. I was totally taken aback by the beauty of the stained glass windows in this chapel. They were so beautiful and told the entire story of the Bible in pictures. We "read" the story as we traveled from window to window. There are over 1100 scenes in the 15 windows of the chapel. We learned over 66% of the windows are the original glass and all of the windows were carefully removed during WWII to save them from the German occupation. We were so glad we saw the chapel and didn't have to wait in the ticket line. Double win!

We did have to get in line to enter the Notre Dame Cathedral though. It was a long curvy line covering the plaza but it moved quickly.

Notre Dame was worth the wait

 We met the nicest people from New Zealand who were traveling around the world the past 6 weeks. They told us delightful stories until we entered the cathedral. The outside of the cathedral has two towers with a central spire and is ornamented with gargoyles and statues. The gray walls and high vaulted ceilings inside the cathedral accentuate the 7,000 silver organ pipes in the balcony, the north and south stained glass rose windows, and the long center aisle drawing you to the altar. We marveled at what these walls have seen since they were first built in 1345.

200,000 lights for the WWII victims of genocide

The last time I was in Paris I really wanted to go to the Deportation Memorial but it was closed. It
was open this time and so we spent a few minutes in quiet reflection. Over 200,000 victims were deported from France to concentration camps during WWII. We entered the memorial, walked down the stairs between two solid cream colored concrete walls and found ourselves in a small enclosed space with tall walls. The only place to see out was at a barred window showing us the Seine River as it flowed past us. As we turned and looked behind us, we saw an entrance to a room with the names of the concentration camps carved into it. We saw a tunnel with 200,000 lights shining between two small locked prison cells. I was overcome by the horror of the genocide and couldn't help but think about the genocides still occurring today.

Love Locks

We walked across the Love Locks bridge and noticed a sign that said the locks will all be removed in August and clear plastic panels put on the bridge instead. The weight of the locks have been destroying the infrastructure of the bridge so they must be removed. We grabbed a photo knowing it will be one of the last. We crossed the bridge into the Latin Quarter and wandered a bit before we stopped for lunch. We enjoyed sitting outside at the cafe watching the people, the traffic and the cute cat named Romeo.

An old train station is now home to the Orsay

Our day was not yet complete as we walked to the Orsay Museum for some time to look at the works of artists from the realism and impressionism periods. We enjoyed works from Rodin, Monet, Renoir, Degas and Manet. Tracey loved the works by Monet. I loved the sculptures by Rodin. We could have spent far more hours at the museum but stayed until they closed the doors enjoying the interesting building and art within.

There was a brief rain shower as we exited but we waited it out and headed to climb the Eiffel Tower stairs. All 690 of them. It was worth it. The Eiffel Tower is imposing when looking at it from the ground and one realizes just how high it is while climbing the stairs. After capturing a few photos in each direction we noticed the dark ominous clouds coming towards us.

The storm is brewing

I am not one to stand on a metal structure that happens to be the tallest one in the city during a storm. The tower was already swaying a bit in the wind and I was ready to head down those stairs. Just as we reached the bottom of the stairs the storm clouds opened, rain fell, and we headed to the nearest metro. We laughed as we walked through the rain in Paris delighted over all the fun we had on this adventure. We fell asleep after a delicious dinner - beef tartar for Gabby, Nicoise salad for Tracey and chicken pasta for me.

The next morning we headed to Versailles by train. We figured out how to buy tickets, get to the right station, locate the right train going the right way on the right platform and arrived in Versailles before 9:30 in the morning. I felt the rest of the day was a bonus. We found ourselves standing outside of the palace entrance looking at a huge line. Thankfully we asked a question of a woman wearing a badge and she suggested we go to the gardens first. We would not have to wait in a line to enter the gardens and we could come back to the palace in the afternoon when the line was significantly shorter.

Off we went. The gardens were huge (over 1600 acres), formal, perfectly groomed and trimmed.

The gardeners never stop working

We watched as the gardeners carefully sculpted the topiaries with stencils. We walked past statues, fountains, and pools so large that teams were practicing rowing their shells, followed 3 kilometers of paths through manicured rows of trees until we circled back to the entrance. There were many labyrinths of intricately designed gardens for the children of Louis XIV to play in. Each had a surprise to discover in the center; a fountain, a playground or a statue. It was hard to imagine this garden only used wheelbarrows to move the massive amounts of dirt as it created these huge gardens in the 1700's. We visited Marie Antoinette's home away from the palace and her private gardens. Everything was ornate and opulent.

One of the many rooms in the Palace

It was now time to enter the palace itself. It was easy to see why the French Revolution occurred as we stared at the enormous dissonance between King Louis XIV and the people he ruled. The palace was beyond anything I could have imagined. Each room exquisitely decorated. The large ceilings painted with angels, gods, hunts, rulers; all meant to impress anyone who entered the room. The chandeliers glistened with crystals. The walls were covered with rich Baroque fabrics. The mirror room was designed to show how rich the King had become. And yet the people in the streets starved.

It is a beautiful sight at night

We grabbed the train back to Paris for our last evening as we wanted to see the Eiffel Tower in lights. The light show did not disappoint. The sky was clear, the air warm and the yellow lights danced across the Tower. We shared a Nutella and banana crepe at the top of the Trocadero stairs as people skillfully danced to music playing while the Eiffel Tower shone against the black night sky. It was a perfect ending to a great day.

We celebrated our last day in Paris with some time on the Champs-Elysees. The famous shopping street stretched almost 2 km from the Arc de Triomphe to the 3,000 year old Obelisk of Luxor, a 75 foot tall Egyptian column in the Place de la Concorde. All along the way we saw teams of city employees setting up bleachers, fencing and directions for Bastille day on July 14th. France would soon celebrate French National Day.

Time to relax in Luxembourg Gardens

We wandered through Luxembourg Gardens and enjoyed the sights and smells around us. The flowers were colorful and fragrant. We stopped at two different art exhibits and admired the different styles of the artists. My favorite spot was at the pond watching the young children laugh and play as they sailed boats in the gentle breeze. After grabbing savory crepes of ham and cheese at a street food stand, we ate lunch in the park before beginning our journey back to Geneva.


We might not have seen it all but we did pretty well. 

Sweet Summer Surprises

Summer has arrived in Geneva. It seems as if something is happening around every corner every weekend.

Concerts in the park

I had seen signs hanging at the tram stops, in the grocery stores and at the parks letting me know something was up. In my very limited French I read the words "Geneve", "musique" and "fete" along with the numbers 19-06-15 so I knew there was a music festival on Friday, June 19th. Actually, it was a three day music festival in Geneva and 600 free concerts were playing in parks all over the city. I found the program online in English, located the parks near us on a map, and after dinner, Doug and I went to check it out. We were so surprised. Firstly, the organizer in me knew how much coordination, set up, equipment, publicity, and volunteers it took to make this possible logistically. Secondly, the atmosphere was electric. People were everywhere and the music was amazing; all genres, all ages, all different venues came together to celebrate how music affects us and brings us together. We had a great time walking from one stage to another as we enjoyed artists of jazz, rock, classical, indie, blues, African folk, opera, electronic, vocal, and dance. As dusk descended, the lights strung between the trees lit the paths and the sound of music drew us to the next concert. We watched the community support its local artists in a big way. We walked home long before the music stopped, enthralled with the music now playing in our minds.

The meeting of the Arve and the Rhone 

We have been enjoying our evening walks especially with sunset now at 9:30pm. One night after dinner we took the path along the shore of the Arve River towards downtown. The water of the Arve flowed from the glaciers of the Chamonix mountains, gray and full of silt as it slowly wound its way through France into Geneva. We walked under trees and bridges until our path became very narrow. We happened upon a group of homeless people cooking dinner under one bridge and apologized for intruding. We passed the kayak club and their gates set up to practice proficiency. And then, at dusk, we found it. The place where the Arve collided into the Rhone! The beautiful blue Rhone River rapidly flowed out of Lake Geneva. At the point of convergence, the grays of the Arve were overtaken by the blues of the Rhone. There was a clear demarcation where the two rivers met. We stood at this point until the sun set over the mountains marveling at the wonder before us.

What a great game! So much fun.

We have also discovered competitions on our walks. One evening we stopped to watch a European Beach Volleyball Tournament. We sat in bleachers in front of a sand volleyball court that had been brought in for the 3 day competition. It was fun to watch the people in the stands as they cheered for the home team. We loved it so much we went back the next day to see the finals.

The European Triathlon Championships took place at the lakefront on July 12th with a 1.5 km swim in Lake Geneva, then a 40 km bike ride followed by a 10 km run. We enjoyed watching the race from our vantage point on a swimming platform in Lake Geneva.

Prizes at the Swiss Wrestling competition

On another evening we discovered a cultural competition as we walked in a park near our apartment. We saw the tents and 4 circles of mulch and sawdust on the ground. A man holding a large water hose was spraying water on the sawdust. We were not sure what kind of competition was about to happen but we watched as men got on the circles of sawdust and began wrestling. The judges ruled the winner as the one who pushed his competition's shoulders into the sawdust. The winner then brushed the sawdust off the losers back. It was great to watch them in traditional dress compete for the prize of a live bull and a huge cow bell. There were musicians, traditional cheese making (and tasting), and people playing alphorns. I later learned we had watched the Swiss wrestling competition called Romain Fete Lutte Suisse.

Picnic lunches

It has been a bit warmer here than normal. The average high temperature in July is usually around 75 degrees with night temperatures dropping to 55 degrees so air conditioners are not necessary in Geneva. We have been experiencing 100 plus degree days for weeks with nighttime temps in the mid 70's, and lots of sun. I am so appreciative of the air conditioning in some of the trams and the fan that accompanies me from room to room in the apartment. My new favorite delight has been to go for an afternoon swim in Lake Geneva. The water temperature is around 72 degrees and I feel so refreshed after a dip. Nicholas, the apartment manager, told me I swim like the Bohemians since I swam at a rocky area instead of the plage (beach). I thought it was just another part of my family heritage since my grandparents were both Bohemian.

All these tomatoes. Don't they look delicious!

Doug and I went to the tomato festival in Carouge, a 15 minute walk from our apartment. I loved it. There were so many colorful kinds of tomatoes for sale beautifully arranged in the fruit and vegetable stands. There were displays of old tractors with old planting and harvesting equipment. The food booths had pig roasts, ice cream, wine, sandwiches, and traditional Swiss cusine. We tried the raclette- melted cheese served over cooked potatoes with a side of gherkin pickles and pearl onions. It was delicious. In the evening, a band played while people danced and visited with friends and family.

Evening walks with my best friend

I have also enjoyed eating the fresh fruit from the street markets this summer. The colorful and delicious strawberries, watermelon, grapes, cherries, raspberries, blueberries, apricots, donut peaches, and melons have been a sweet treat. I also have to admit the ice cream and gelato has been really good too!

We continue to enjoy our summer in Geneva.

Some of the best surprises can be those in your own backyard.