Wednesday, July 29, 2015

Tuscany for two


Doug and I drove to Tuscany, Italy for a week of vacation. For months we had been looking forward to staying in the Italian Riviera. We chose a route we hadn't driven yet because we love experiencing new scenery. This trip was our longest one yet at 790 km and we went through 2 border crossings in 2 different languages (and road signs), numerous toll booths and 5 different weather patterns to get there. We chose the route near the coast to catch views of the Mediterranean along the way.

At the Frejus Tunnel
We were not disappointed. Tuscany is an area on the west coast of Italy covering almost 9000 square miles. The scenery was stunningly beautiful. We entered Italy through the 8 mile long Frejus tunnel in the Cottian Alps. Once into Italy, Doug and I kept staring out the window at the massive mountains which surrounded us. The shocking things to us were the medieval castles perched on top of the peaks, how far up the mountain the vineyards and olive groves were planted, and how totally remote and secluded some homes were on the side of the mountain. All along the route we saw square stucco homes painted in pastel cream, yellow, and peach colors. The terra cotta tiled roofs created a sense of unity between them. We saw farmland with fields of corn, wheat and sunflowers. We saw workers hand picking fields of tomatoes while in the next field people were hand planting new vegetable crops.

Walking to the beach
We drove through Massa and saw huge, white blocks of something. As we looked closer we realized it was marble that had been cut out of the mountain. The marble from this region has been used by the ancient Romans to build the Pantheon and by Michelangelo to sculpt David. It's also been used in the Peace Monument in Washington D.C. There was a lot of marble sitting there waiting to be used.

We traveled through many mountain tunnels on our drive. So many that I actually counted them. 95. That's a lot of tunnels and a road construction marvel. Each time we exited a tunnel we were amazed at the small towns and cities that hugged the sides of the mountain. We caught a few glimpses of the Sea as we continued to travel south. The temperature was warmer, the land more arid, and my excitement grew. We had arrived!

Moonlight talks
There's always a bit of apprehension when booking online in another country especially with a language barrier. Upon arrival, everything was as they said and more than we hoped. We were so happy with our accomodations. Our apartment was a delight. We had our own private garden in front of our unit that overlooked our beach on the Mediterranean Sea. In the mornings and evenings, we listened to the doves cooing and the cicadas singing while we lounged in our garden reading and sharing our thoughts. The resort was hidden in the Maremma Nature Park. We walked among pine trees, olive groves and palm trees as we went from our terraced hillside apartment to the beach.

Our beach chairs



I had looked at the weather forecast before we left Geneva and was prepared for 6 days of rain. On our first day the sky was cloudless and the most amazing blue so I was a bit confused but excited. We took advantage of the blessing. The next day we woke to the same blue sky and warm sun. I was puzzled. I rechecked my weather forecast again and realized I had been looking at Talamona, Italy instead of Talamone, Italy. One letter made a huge difference. Our new forecast was for an entire week of 90 degree sunshine days. No need for that rain gear!

Our pool and the view

We enjoyed basking in the sun and soaking up the gorgeous view surrounding us. We stayed in Talamone, a small fishing village that literally ended in the Mediterranean Sea. Our plans were to take advantage of the lounge chairs and umbrella at the beach in the mornings, head back for a late lunch, then enjoy pool time until dinner. On our evening walks we explored the fishing village, walked along the shoreline on the promenade, and wandered around our resort. It was perfect. Some days we even mixed it up with pool time in the mornings and beach time in the afternoon.

Windsurfers and kitesurfers sail across the bay
Talamone Bay is known for its windsurfing. While we were there, the warm wind came up every afternoon and the water was full of people windsurfing and kitesurfing. The bay was shallow and sandy for about 200 feet from the shore so people could practice a bit before they headed out across the bay. Doug and I watched with amazement as people sailed across the bay, caught some serious air up off the water, and turned on their boards with lightening speed. We counted over 50 colorful kites pulling people across the water with many windsurfers darting between them. Then, just as suddenly, the wind was gone along with the surfers.

We loved exploring the fishing village of Talamone.
Talamone, Italy

Talamone was a quaint city with sailboats and small fishing boats securely anchored in the harbor. Three story buildings hugged the steep, narrow streets, colorful flowers lined the sidewalks, and people ate outside on the cobblestone plaza at tables set with linen and wine glasses. We walked through the city and appreciated the simple life of the residents. As we looked over the ancient wall we saw many flights of stairs that led down to the Sea where people were swimming and playing. It was beautiful. And by the way, they had gelato! Peach strawberry was my favorite.

On top of the fortress
The sense of history was profound as we learned people have lived on this rocky hill since before 500 BC. The Romans fought for this strategic rock and took it over in 225 BC. Numerous battles have taken place here since then; the fortress destroyed, rebuilt and abandoned until the current fortress was built in 1300 AD. We went inside one evening and climbed to the top of the tower. I thought about the many people who stood watch on this tower guarding the city below.

Catching the sunset









One evening we sat at the end of the village overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. We watched the sky change colors as the sun set in the west and the moon shone above us. The Sea was calm and quiet and alluring. It stirred something up in me as we sat on the very edge at the top of the rock. A sense of longing, a sense of something new coming, and an excitement all at the same time.
What a view!

All too soon it was time to leave.

We won't forget our time spent in the Italian Riviera.














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