California dreaming

Joshua Tree National Park-Warren Peak and Joshua Trees

I know I am posting this in June but we actually took this trip April 15-23, 2016. 

We found an amazing deal on an inaugural Frontier flight from Cincinnati to Los Angeles and I jumped at the chance to get back to California. Doug had some business to do but we managed to wrap some time around the trip for a bit of exploring. Our direct flight landed at 4 pm and we began our 150 mile drive to 29 Palms. The three hour drive took longer in traffic (more like 5 1/2 hours) but we didn't mind. The weather was beautiful, the scenery gorgeous and the company delightful. We grabbed a double double from In-N-Out Burger and sat outside watching the lines of people doing the same thing. Our dinner break also had the extra benefit of dispersing a bit of rush hour traffic. We arrived at 29 Palms knowing we were headed to Joshua Tree National Park in the morning. This year our country is celebrating 100 years since the creation of National Parks and park admission was free for the weekend. Joshua Tree National Park is located where the Colorado Desert and the Mojave Desert meet. The Colorado desert is dotted with cacti while in the Mojave desert's higher elevations the Joshua Tree grows.

We each grabbed our hiking boots, zip-off pants, and long sleeve shirt along with our water bottle and lunch and headed to the information center. I had found a few trails online that looked interesting but wanted to ask for their recommendations too. The temperature was perfect at 75-80 degrees which was quite comfortable for the desert. The winds were another story. There was a high wind advisory for the afternoon; 18 - 40 mile a hour winds were going to add a complexity to our 5.5 mile hike to Warren's Peak.
The entrance to the trail to Warren's Peak is actually within the Black Rock Campground.

Warren Peak Trail flowers

We found the trail head without difficulty. I was totally unprepared for the beauty of the desert though. The flowers were in bloom and small blossoms of vivid color popped out everywhere-yellow, pink, blue, violet, red, periwinkle- hanging precariously to small plants swaying in the wind. The Joshua Trees, which live only in the Mojave, were scattered throughout the landscape as if flung there haphazardly. They have a deep root that grows 30 feet deep in search of water and a series of shallow roots that collect any moisture at the surface. They can live a 1000 years but typically live 150-200 years in the wild. As we walked along the trail the birds were singing in the shrubs and lizards rested on the warm rocks. Doug and I marveled at the tenacity of the plants and animals to survive and thrive. We were all alone out there and the desert seemed endless.

Standing on top of Warren's Peak

We climbed to the 5,103 foot summit of Warren's Peak and we could see both the Mojave Desert and Colorado desert from where we were standing. Snow was still on the higher elevations of the mountains visible in the distance. We scanned the hills for wildlife as we ate our lunch sheltered behind a rock. The wind was becoming stronger so we began our trip back to the car.

Hidden Valley Trail Rock Climbing 

It was early afternoon when we left the Campground and drove the 14 miles to enter the West entrance of the National Park. I was so surprised as the desert looked totally different. The paved road was lined with huge white and light tan boulders. There was sparse vegetation and a lot more people. We had a map of the many hiking trails along the road and chose to stop at Hidden Valley first. In the 1870's, cattle rustlers used this area to rebrand stolen cattle and horses before they sold them in other states. This trail wandered around a 55 acre valley surrounded by gigantic rock. The rocks block the wind and funnel moisture to the valley allowing the valley to support a variety of plant and animal life. We saw many lizards, no snakes thankfully, and some people rock climbing. I mean really crazy rock climbers hanging onto crevices by their fingertips. At one point, I was holding my camera(phone) using the other hand to climb onto the large boulders and I had to stop. I was scared, thought I would fall off and needed 3 points of contact. Doug put my phone safely into the backpack and we continued to climb. We had good hiking shoes on but saw people climbing much higher than us wearing flip flops. Really, flip flops! 

Boulders surrounding Barker Dam

We left Hidden Valley and drove a short distance to the trail head of Barker Dam. The dam was built by the Keys family around 1900 to hold water for cattle and mining use. The Keys family were one of the few successful homesteaders in the area. The 1.5 mile hike led us on a narrow trail through towering boulders on each side. The temperature change in the shade was noticeable and welcomed. We continued winding our way through until we reached an open area. We could see where the water would be if it was winter or early spring. The trees provided shade and continued to thrive even in the absence of visible water. We climbed the rocks, avoided the thorns in the shrubs, found our way to the dam and hiked past the desert shrubs in the flat terrain behind the boulders. I was getting better at this rock climbing thing.

A welcomed site 

The next day the wind died down, the sky was a brilliant blue and the temperature a nice 85 degrees. We dressed in shorts and a short sleeve shirt and headed out to the trail head of the Forty Nine Palms Oasis. The entrance to this trail head was deceiving. It is located outside the ranger station and so fewer people use this trail. We drove past homes with cacti and rocks for their front lawn until we came to a deadend and faced a rocky hill with a few red-flowering barrel catci. This trail was 4 miles climbing up and down the hills in a barren landscape. It was already warm and there was no shade. Thankful for a hat and water bottle we continued winding around the rocky hills. I knew we would see palm trees at some point but it didn't seem likely considering where we were. But, then after a few miles, we turned the corner, and below us we could see green palm trees. It was a striking contrast to the brown rocky ground on which we were walking. The lush, green, palm trees seemed so out of place but they were quite impressive. They had been planted by miners to mark the spring that continues to water the trees today. When we reached the oasis, the air was significantly cooler. There were bugs flying in the air, the birds were singing, the lizards were sunning themselves and we sat on the large, flat rocks to join them. I thought about what it must have been like to wander in this desert searching for water and then finding this small oasis of life. We sat for a long time not wanting to leave this little sanctuary. We basked in the sun and ate our picnic lunch. Refreshed by the quiet and renewed by the rest, we knew it was time to go. 

In the desert I had a lot of time to ponder and reflect. A few thoughts came to mind. Like, find the beauty around you, it can be in the most unlikely places. A reminder to bloom where you are planted. I learned my perception of the desert was not what I experienced and it changed what I thought I knew to be true. I had thoughts about bravery and what it took for men and women to survive out here. Everything had to adapt to continue to thrive. I think bravery is doing what it takes even if you are afraid. 

Pool time

We left Joshua Tree National Park and drove 1.5 hours through the desert to Moreno Valley. Since we had arrived in the dark the scenery was all new to me. I stared out the window taking it all in. The next few days Doug had work to do and I enjoyed pool time, reading, writing and shopping. The days were lovely; 95 degrees with a gentle breeze. 

With the completion of work we left Moreno Valley and drove to the coast. It had been a long time since we had stayed in Port Hueneme. This is where we first lived after getting married. We arrived after dark but drove through the area searching for familiar things. Mostly we marveled at all the changes. 

Ferry Ride to the Island

The next morning we joined the Santa Barbara Adventure Company for a day at the Channel Islands National Park. We took a one hour ferry ride to the Islands. The wind was blowing and waves splashed over the top deck. I kept my eyes on the water; partly to watch for marine life and partly to avoid sea sickness. We saw sea lions on the way to the Island and whales later that afternoon on our return trip.

The dock to the Island had been severly damaged a few years back changing the way we needed to get off the ferry. All of the passengers disembarked onto a 6 person motorized raft and we were shuttled to the Island. It was easy and fun. 

Kayaking on Channel Islands- What an adventure!

We had booked a 3 hour kayak tour in and around the caves of Channel Islands. The Santa Barbara Adventure Company guides were fantastic; so knowledgeable, friendly and helpful. We got into wet suits, waterproof long sleeve jackets, helmets and then put on our life jackets. We carried our two person ocean kayak to the shore after a short time of instruction. This was a serious ocean kayak adventure. 
The wind was causing the waves to do their thing but thankfully we were able to enter all of the caves that day. The guides would go in first to make sure it was safe and then we would all follow. It was the trip of a lifetime! We didn't want it to end. We learned how to time the entrance to the cave with the swell of the waves. Some caves were so tight we had to use our hands against the sides of the cave to manuever through them. Our guides would shine light in the caves so we could see the colors of the walls of the caves. It was impressive but my favoite was looking out into the ocean from inside the cave and seeing the light erupt from the darkness. It was stunning. We even saw seals with their young pups in one of the caves. I am so glad we went on this adventure.

Doug and I scheduled an appointment to walk through our first condo where we began our married life. We hadn't been inside for 27 years but have rented it out all this time. It brought back so many memories as we walked from room to room. It still is a cute place.

Point Mugu Canyon

We took a short drive down Highway 1 to Point Mugu to hike in the canyon. Part of the trail I had planned to take was closed due to coyote activity. So, we took a nearby trail through a canyon hoping the coyotes were staying put. The canyon hike took us to a view of the Pacific Ocean that was breathtakingly beautiful. We could see the Channel Islands in the distance. A fire had raged through this canyon some time ago and the canyon was still recovering. The flowering yucca plants loomed high above me, the shrubs and flowers covered the ground but evidence of burned trees still existed. Later that day we drove through Port Hueneme, Oxnard and Ventura; stopping to shop, walk along the harbor, eat Mexican dinners and reminiscence about our time here early in our marriage. What a great way to spend the day.  

What an adventure

Before leaving California we drove down the coast on Highway 1 stopping along the way. We paused at a few turnouts to admire the Pacific Ocean crashing against the rocks, the ships moving freight along the coast and the beauty of the marine life all around us.
Our final stop before taking our red eye flight back to Ohio was Santa Monica Beach. We walked up and down the pier stopping to watch a few musicians and entertainers, were amazed at the athletes on muscle beach, and enjoyed lunch with a ocean view. This has been a great adventure and I am so glad we got to enjoy it.

Sweet Home Alabama

Doug and I were looking forward to our trip to Alabama. We were combining a little "Go and Be time" with a bit of "Go and Do activity". The weather forecast looked like we were going to have the most sun early in the week so we headed straight to Foley, Alabama to spend some time with mom and dad. We left our home in the wee morning hours knowing we had a 14 hour drive ahead of us. We enjoyed the journey, our time together and the views of the countryside rolling past our window. I smiled as we crossed the border from one state to another remembering the game we played with the kids when they were young. The words "State number one - Check", "State number two - In" rang in my mind bringing back memories of the many car trips we took together.

Absolutely wonderful!

The weather kept improving the farther south we traveled. I paid close attention to the landscape and the foliage. I love the first hint of spring; the tint of green in the grass and shrubs and the evidence of buds on the branches of the trees. It warms my soul knowing winter is losing its grip. As we entered Alabama, I saw the first flowering tree and knew it wouldn't be long now before the hillside would be in full bloom.

It was dusk as we pulled into the campground where mom and dad spend their winter. Doug and I had brought our tent to set up alongside the RV. In short order the tent was up and it was time to play cards. Mom and Dad invited a few friends to join us and we had a great time playing Hand and Foot, my mom's favorite game. Armed with Dad's fresh popped popcorn, we laughed, shared stories and celebrated victories. What great memories of close battles and near wins the girls had that night.

Operation Pelican Rescue

The next day Doug and I drove to Gulf Shores to spend the day at the beach. We brought our beach chairs, a good book, a picnic lunch and grabbed a spot near the pier. We soaked in the rays of the sun while we listened to the crash of the waves against the shore. The white sand, bright blue sky and warm sunshine welcomed us. With each inhaled breath we felt our spirits soar as feelings of peace filled us. As the morning gently rolled into afternoon we walked along the shore; looking for shells, watching for dolphins, and sharing our thoughts and dreams.

We noticed a pelican diving for fish near the shore but something didn't seem right. His angle was off and he was in really shallow water. It was then we noticed he was caught in a long fishing line. He looked at us as if imploring us to help him. We grabbed the fishing line which was just inches from the shore as the pelican waited patiently. I went looking for something to help set him free while Doug kept him near the shore. Thankfully I spotted the ranger who was equipped to free the pelican. As three rangers and Doug cut the line from his entangled wing and foot, onlookers gathered. We all cheered as the freed pelican rested for a moment and then took flight.

The beauty within the fort

Our border defense in 1834

The weather was still beautiful the next day so we headed to Fort Pickens in Pensacola, Florida with mom and dad. After the War of 1812, the United States realized it needed to strengthen all its major ports against enemy attacks. Forts were built all along the Eastern coast. Fort Pickens was finished in 1834; built in only 5 years by black slave labor. When Florida succeeded from the Union in 1861, Civil War fighting found its way to Fort Pickens. Ironically, this fort built by slaves was instrumental in setting them free. The Federals maintained control of this fort and Union soldiers eventually entered Florida ending the war. Even though the fort was an important military post until 1947 the only real battles fought there were during the Civil War. Now, the weapons have all been scrapped, the military has left and tourists walk among the empty passageways. We walked through the remains of this large fort and marveled at the bricked architecture, thought about the men and women who were stationed here, and appreciated the view of the harbor from the top of the fort. We imagined the sounds and sights of exploding cannons and heavy cannonballs soaring up to 8 miles away into the harbor.

Hiking through the Wildlife Refuge

 

Before leaving Gulf Shores Doug and I hiked in the Bon Secour Wildlife Refuge. This refuge was set up in 1980 to protect and preserve the coastal habitat. There are over 370 species of birds that call the 6000 acres in Bon Secour home. As we walked along the path we could hear many of them singing. Huge oak trees covered in Spanish Moss lined the entrance of the path. We walked past wetlands, climbed a tower overlooking the bay, and wandered along the shifting sand dunes until we reached the Gulf of Mexico. The salty smell of the air, the crash of the surf and the strong blowing wind filled our senses. We stopped to eat the snack we had brought in a sheltered spot along the trail before heading back to the car. The black snake lying across our warm sandy path was expertly avoided and left undisturbed by our carefully placed feet.

Fort Morgan's entrance

We drove to the end of the road and entered Fort Morgan. It was built to prevent our enemies from entering the harbor but proved ineffective during the Civil War when Union forces entered the bay after suffering the loss of only one ship. During the Spanish-American War, WWI and WWII the fort had new weapons installed and it played a role in our country's defense. Now as a historical landmark it plays a role in helping us remember our past.
This fort has suffered from the effects of Hurricanes Frederic and Ivan forever changing the landscape of the area. We returned to the campground to the smell of grilled pork chops and sweet potatoes and had a delicious dinner compliments of dad and mom. After a bit more time playing cards we said goodbye to this part of our adventure.

In the morning we packed up the tent, loaded the truck and drove 4 hours to Birmingham. It was a rainy day so we relaxed at the hotel after a nice BBQ dinner. 

16th Street Baptist Church

We headed to the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute in the morning. The doors opened in 1992 to enlighten every generation about human and civil rights of America's past and to foster a better future through dialogue and understanding. Interactive exhibits helped us put ourselves into this part of America's history. Birmingham was the nation's most segregated city in America in the 1960's. I have visited a few places in the world where I was overcome with remorse and felt the need to ask for God's forgiveness on behalf of this nation; this was one such place. The powerful exhibits challenged me to continue to explore how I might be an agent of change.

We climbed the steps of the 16th Street Baptist Church, the site where many nonviolent marches started in 1963 and where a KKK bomb exploded killing four young girls on their way to hear a message called "A Love that Forgives." 

Across the street we entered Kelly Ingram Park and began the Freedom Walk; we walked past sculptures of children behind bars, vicious dogs with barred teeth straining at the leash held by policemen and pastors on their knees praying. The statue of Martin Luther King, Jr. tells the story of reconciliation, "his dream liberated Birmingham from itself and set in motion a new day of love, mutual respect and cooperation." 

Powerful reminders of our recent past

One of the marches that captured the attention of the nation occurred in April of 1963. Children walked from this park to City Hall in a peaceful demonstration but were met by police, dogs and high powered fire houses. One thousand students marched, 600 were arrested. The next day another thousand marched, more were arrested until the jails could hold no more. Media broadcasted the marches across America and the tide turned to pass the Civil Rights Act of 1964 enforcing the 14th amendment enacted almost 100 years previously. Doug and I walked the path of these students conscious of their bravery and determination for change.                                             

Race to Space 

On our final day in Alabama we drove to Huntsville to see the Space and Rocket Center. We spent a few hours learning more about our race to space; JFK's declaration to be the first to land on the moon, the scientists who used the technology available to them and invented so much to make this happen and the astronauts who were willing to sacrifice everything for this goal. I appreciated the timelines that showed the space race alongside the things happening in our country at the time. Communism advancement, Cuba missile crisis, Vietnam, Civil rights marches, and assassinations of Martin Luther King, Jr. and JFK are a few of the troubles during this turbulent time. The memorial to those who lost their lives in space was a stanch reminder of the cost in achieving this mission. 

Our hotel was in downtown Huntsville which allowed us time to explore this old town. It was incorporated in 1805 and was Alabama's capital for the first year of statehood. Initially Huntsville opposed succession from the Union but Alabama joined the Confederate's in 1861. For much of the Civil War Huntsville was held by the Union and used as a base of operations. Because the Union Army was located here the town was not destroyed. After the war the textile industry was centered here creating its own company towns. In 1941, the U.S. Army built munitions factories nearby and then after WWII with the new rocket and missile program the city received the nickname "Rocket City". 

Old brick buildings with colorful hanging flower baskets, brick paved sidewalks along quiet streets and houses with wide front porches beckoned us to walk slowly hand in hand appreciating the history these streets had seen. We visited an old textile mill now reclaimed as an art studio filled with many area artists. My favorite was the studio of a man who constructed beautiful guitars and had a small stage for musicians to perform. The three story mill was filled with creative artists finding a way to express themselves with paint, ceramics, paper and textiles. 

We left Alabama more aware of the history of America, more intrigued with our country and ready for more adventure.