California dreaming

Joshua Tree National Park-Warren Peak and Joshua Trees

I know I am posting this in June but we actually took this trip April 15-23, 2016. 

We found an amazing deal on an inaugural Frontier flight from Cincinnati to Los Angeles and I jumped at the chance to get back to California. Doug had some business to do but we managed to wrap some time around the trip for a bit of exploring. Our direct flight landed at 4 pm and we began our 150 mile drive to 29 Palms. The three hour drive took longer in traffic (more like 5 1/2 hours) but we didn't mind. The weather was beautiful, the scenery gorgeous and the company delightful. We grabbed a double double from In-N-Out Burger and sat outside watching the lines of people doing the same thing. Our dinner break also had the extra benefit of dispersing a bit of rush hour traffic. We arrived at 29 Palms knowing we were headed to Joshua Tree National Park in the morning. This year our country is celebrating 100 years since the creation of National Parks and park admission was free for the weekend. Joshua Tree National Park is located where the Colorado Desert and the Mojave Desert meet. The Colorado desert is dotted with cacti while in the Mojave desert's higher elevations the Joshua Tree grows.

We each grabbed our hiking boots, zip-off pants, and long sleeve shirt along with our water bottle and lunch and headed to the information center. I had found a few trails online that looked interesting but wanted to ask for their recommendations too. The temperature was perfect at 75-80 degrees which was quite comfortable for the desert. The winds were another story. There was a high wind advisory for the afternoon; 18 - 40 mile a hour winds were going to add a complexity to our 5.5 mile hike to Warren's Peak.
The entrance to the trail to Warren's Peak is actually within the Black Rock Campground.

Warren Peak Trail flowers

We found the trail head without difficulty. I was totally unprepared for the beauty of the desert though. The flowers were in bloom and small blossoms of vivid color popped out everywhere-yellow, pink, blue, violet, red, periwinkle- hanging precariously to small plants swaying in the wind. The Joshua Trees, which live only in the Mojave, were scattered throughout the landscape as if flung there haphazardly. They have a deep root that grows 30 feet deep in search of water and a series of shallow roots that collect any moisture at the surface. They can live a 1000 years but typically live 150-200 years in the wild. As we walked along the trail the birds were singing in the shrubs and lizards rested on the warm rocks. Doug and I marveled at the tenacity of the plants and animals to survive and thrive. We were all alone out there and the desert seemed endless.

Standing on top of Warren's Peak

We climbed to the 5,103 foot summit of Warren's Peak and we could see both the Mojave Desert and Colorado desert from where we were standing. Snow was still on the higher elevations of the mountains visible in the distance. We scanned the hills for wildlife as we ate our lunch sheltered behind a rock. The wind was becoming stronger so we began our trip back to the car.

Hidden Valley Trail Rock Climbing 

It was early afternoon when we left the Campground and drove the 14 miles to enter the West entrance of the National Park. I was so surprised as the desert looked totally different. The paved road was lined with huge white and light tan boulders. There was sparse vegetation and a lot more people. We had a map of the many hiking trails along the road and chose to stop at Hidden Valley first. In the 1870's, cattle rustlers used this area to rebrand stolen cattle and horses before they sold them in other states. This trail wandered around a 55 acre valley surrounded by gigantic rock. The rocks block the wind and funnel moisture to the valley allowing the valley to support a variety of plant and animal life. We saw many lizards, no snakes thankfully, and some people rock climbing. I mean really crazy rock climbers hanging onto crevices by their fingertips. At one point, I was holding my camera(phone) using the other hand to climb onto the large boulders and I had to stop. I was scared, thought I would fall off and needed 3 points of contact. Doug put my phone safely into the backpack and we continued to climb. We had good hiking shoes on but saw people climbing much higher than us wearing flip flops. Really, flip flops! 

Boulders surrounding Barker Dam

We left Hidden Valley and drove a short distance to the trail head of Barker Dam. The dam was built by the Keys family around 1900 to hold water for cattle and mining use. The Keys family were one of the few successful homesteaders in the area. The 1.5 mile hike led us on a narrow trail through towering boulders on each side. The temperature change in the shade was noticeable and welcomed. We continued winding our way through until we reached an open area. We could see where the water would be if it was winter or early spring. The trees provided shade and continued to thrive even in the absence of visible water. We climbed the rocks, avoided the thorns in the shrubs, found our way to the dam and hiked past the desert shrubs in the flat terrain behind the boulders. I was getting better at this rock climbing thing.

A welcomed site 

The next day the wind died down, the sky was a brilliant blue and the temperature a nice 85 degrees. We dressed in shorts and a short sleeve shirt and headed out to the trail head of the Forty Nine Palms Oasis. The entrance to this trail head was deceiving. It is located outside the ranger station and so fewer people use this trail. We drove past homes with cacti and rocks for their front lawn until we came to a deadend and faced a rocky hill with a few red-flowering barrel catci. This trail was 4 miles climbing up and down the hills in a barren landscape. It was already warm and there was no shade. Thankful for a hat and water bottle we continued winding around the rocky hills. I knew we would see palm trees at some point but it didn't seem likely considering where we were. But, then after a few miles, we turned the corner, and below us we could see green palm trees. It was a striking contrast to the brown rocky ground on which we were walking. The lush, green, palm trees seemed so out of place but they were quite impressive. They had been planted by miners to mark the spring that continues to water the trees today. When we reached the oasis, the air was significantly cooler. There were bugs flying in the air, the birds were singing, the lizards were sunning themselves and we sat on the large, flat rocks to join them. I thought about what it must have been like to wander in this desert searching for water and then finding this small oasis of life. We sat for a long time not wanting to leave this little sanctuary. We basked in the sun and ate our picnic lunch. Refreshed by the quiet and renewed by the rest, we knew it was time to go. 

In the desert I had a lot of time to ponder and reflect. A few thoughts came to mind. Like, find the beauty around you, it can be in the most unlikely places. A reminder to bloom where you are planted. I learned my perception of the desert was not what I experienced and it changed what I thought I knew to be true. I had thoughts about bravery and what it took for men and women to survive out here. Everything had to adapt to continue to thrive. I think bravery is doing what it takes even if you are afraid. 

Pool time

We left Joshua Tree National Park and drove 1.5 hours through the desert to Moreno Valley. Since we had arrived in the dark the scenery was all new to me. I stared out the window taking it all in. The next few days Doug had work to do and I enjoyed pool time, reading, writing and shopping. The days were lovely; 95 degrees with a gentle breeze. 

With the completion of work we left Moreno Valley and drove to the coast. It had been a long time since we had stayed in Port Hueneme. This is where we first lived after getting married. We arrived after dark but drove through the area searching for familiar things. Mostly we marveled at all the changes. 

Ferry Ride to the Island

The next morning we joined the Santa Barbara Adventure Company for a day at the Channel Islands National Park. We took a one hour ferry ride to the Islands. The wind was blowing and waves splashed over the top deck. I kept my eyes on the water; partly to watch for marine life and partly to avoid sea sickness. We saw sea lions on the way to the Island and whales later that afternoon on our return trip.

The dock to the Island had been severly damaged a few years back changing the way we needed to get off the ferry. All of the passengers disembarked onto a 6 person motorized raft and we were shuttled to the Island. It was easy and fun. 

Kayaking on Channel Islands- What an adventure!

We had booked a 3 hour kayak tour in and around the caves of Channel Islands. The Santa Barbara Adventure Company guides were fantastic; so knowledgeable, friendly and helpful. We got into wet suits, waterproof long sleeve jackets, helmets and then put on our life jackets. We carried our two person ocean kayak to the shore after a short time of instruction. This was a serious ocean kayak adventure. 
The wind was causing the waves to do their thing but thankfully we were able to enter all of the caves that day. The guides would go in first to make sure it was safe and then we would all follow. It was the trip of a lifetime! We didn't want it to end. We learned how to time the entrance to the cave with the swell of the waves. Some caves were so tight we had to use our hands against the sides of the cave to manuever through them. Our guides would shine light in the caves so we could see the colors of the walls of the caves. It was impressive but my favoite was looking out into the ocean from inside the cave and seeing the light erupt from the darkness. It was stunning. We even saw seals with their young pups in one of the caves. I am so glad we went on this adventure.

Doug and I scheduled an appointment to walk through our first condo where we began our married life. We hadn't been inside for 27 years but have rented it out all this time. It brought back so many memories as we walked from room to room. It still is a cute place.

Point Mugu Canyon

We took a short drive down Highway 1 to Point Mugu to hike in the canyon. Part of the trail I had planned to take was closed due to coyote activity. So, we took a nearby trail through a canyon hoping the coyotes were staying put. The canyon hike took us to a view of the Pacific Ocean that was breathtakingly beautiful. We could see the Channel Islands in the distance. A fire had raged through this canyon some time ago and the canyon was still recovering. The flowering yucca plants loomed high above me, the shrubs and flowers covered the ground but evidence of burned trees still existed. Later that day we drove through Port Hueneme, Oxnard and Ventura; stopping to shop, walk along the harbor, eat Mexican dinners and reminiscence about our time here early in our marriage. What a great way to spend the day.  

What an adventure

Before leaving California we drove down the coast on Highway 1 stopping along the way. We paused at a few turnouts to admire the Pacific Ocean crashing against the rocks, the ships moving freight along the coast and the beauty of the marine life all around us.
Our final stop before taking our red eye flight back to Ohio was Santa Monica Beach. We walked up and down the pier stopping to watch a few musicians and entertainers, were amazed at the athletes on muscle beach, and enjoyed lunch with a ocean view. This has been a great adventure and I am so glad we got to enjoy it.